If you have called tech support, one of the questions you will usually hear is "Have you tried restarting?" Yes, turning your device off and back on may actually fix many of the problems you are having.
There are many reasons why a restart can fix a problem. The data that your computer is actively using (in open programs and files) has to be refreshed by the computer regularly. If data gets corrupted on a refresh, it can remain corrupted until you restart. Depending on what got corrupted, this error might never cause a problem or it might crash the entire system. (The most likely outcome is somewhere in between the two.) Restarting your computer will force the computer to use the original data instead of constantly refreshing the corrupted data.
Memory leaks are another problem that can be solved with a restart. A memory leak occurs when a program constantly requests more and more memory. You may not be using that program anymore, but the memory may still be reserved for it. This limits the memory available for other tasks. (To visualize, think of memory like employees. If you keep taking employees away from their regular duties to work on one project, you can accomplish fewer tasks with the remaining employees.)
Restarting can also be a diagnostic tool. Even if the problem returns after a restart, you can use the restart to determine if a program is causing the problem. When the problem appears, think about the last program you opened. Then, test it by restarting and using only that program. If the problem appears, restart again and try using your computer without opening that program. If the problem does not surface, then you can check for updates or uninstall and reinstall that program.
Restarting even works on devices like routers and modems. I have saved many phone calls to my internet provider by simply unplugging my router and modem for a few seconds. Plug it back in, and the internet works fine again.
Friday, May 29, 2015
Thursday, May 28, 2015
Keep Vents Clean to Help Airflow
The biggest enemy of a computer is heat. Computers have multiple fans to protect them against heat, and all computers have triggers that will cause an instant shut down if the computer gets too hot. (Older computers did not have these built-in safeguards. They would keep running until the computer became too damaged to work anymore.)
Dust is a computer's second-biggest enemy. While dust alone can not do much harm to a computer, it can work with heat to kill your computer even faster. A layer of dust can insulate heat against your components, keeping the heat away from the fans that will push warm air out. It can also clog up fans or vents, reducing their functionality. Keeping dust out of your computer is important.
To get rid of dust, I simply use a can of compressed air. These are available just about anywhere electronics are sold (Walmart, Meijer, Best Buy, etc.) for a few dollars. If you have not cleaned the dust out of your computer in a while, you may want to take it outside to clean it so that you do not blow all the dust back into your house.
On a desktop, remove the side cover if you can figure out how to do so (it is usually held in place with a couple screws on the back). Using the can of compressed air, blow all dust out of the case. Then go to each external vent and blow the dust out of each vent. (Note: If your computer is under warranty, I do not recommend opening the case. Opening the case, even to remove dust, may void the warranty, and many manufacturers are including stickers or sensors to detect if the case has been opened.)
Since a laptop is much harder to take apart, it will also be more difficult to clean. However, you can still clear dust out of all the vents. Many laptops have some covers on the bottom that can be removed for easy access to certain components that are easy to upgrade. If your laptop has these, take them off and blow any dust out of these areas, as well.
Finally, most laptops have a keyboard that is fairly easy to remove. If you are feeling ambitious, you can unscrew the keyboard screws, flip the keyboard over, and have access to blow dust off of some of the components on top. However, when you unscrew the keyboard, be careful that you do not unlatch the ribbon cable from the motherboard. Many of these are difficult to get back into place, especially if you do not have experience at replacing them.
On phones and tablets, just do the best you can. Many do not have vents, and some do not even have a removable cover to access the battery. You may or may not be able to blow out any dust on these devices, but the lack of access also means that dust will have a more difficult time getting in.
Dust is a computer's second-biggest enemy. While dust alone can not do much harm to a computer, it can work with heat to kill your computer even faster. A layer of dust can insulate heat against your components, keeping the heat away from the fans that will push warm air out. It can also clog up fans or vents, reducing their functionality. Keeping dust out of your computer is important.
To get rid of dust, I simply use a can of compressed air. These are available just about anywhere electronics are sold (Walmart, Meijer, Best Buy, etc.) for a few dollars. If you have not cleaned the dust out of your computer in a while, you may want to take it outside to clean it so that you do not blow all the dust back into your house.
On a desktop, remove the side cover if you can figure out how to do so (it is usually held in place with a couple screws on the back). Using the can of compressed air, blow all dust out of the case. Then go to each external vent and blow the dust out of each vent. (Note: If your computer is under warranty, I do not recommend opening the case. Opening the case, even to remove dust, may void the warranty, and many manufacturers are including stickers or sensors to detect if the case has been opened.)
Since a laptop is much harder to take apart, it will also be more difficult to clean. However, you can still clear dust out of all the vents. Many laptops have some covers on the bottom that can be removed for easy access to certain components that are easy to upgrade. If your laptop has these, take them off and blow any dust out of these areas, as well.
Finally, most laptops have a keyboard that is fairly easy to remove. If you are feeling ambitious, you can unscrew the keyboard screws, flip the keyboard over, and have access to blow dust off of some of the components on top. However, when you unscrew the keyboard, be careful that you do not unlatch the ribbon cable from the motherboard. Many of these are difficult to get back into place, especially if you do not have experience at replacing them.
On phones and tablets, just do the best you can. Many do not have vents, and some do not even have a removable cover to access the battery. You may or may not be able to blow out any dust on these devices, but the lack of access also means that dust will have a more difficult time getting in.
Wednesday, May 27, 2015
But I Have an Antivirus!
Among comments I hear most often when I am on a service call and I discover a virus is something like, "But I have an antivirus" or "How did that get past my McAfee/Norton/AVG/etc?" Today, I want to clear up exactly what you should expect your antivirus program to be able to do.
An antivirus program is to your computer what the immune system is to your body. The fact that you have a working immune system does not mean you will never get sick. Even those who take vitamins and supplements to boost their immune system will still find their bodies succumbing to the occasional illness. When a virus enters your body, your immune system only knows to eliminate it if you have had it before and have built a resistance to that virus. If you have never encountered that particular strain of a virus, it may take some time before your body realizes that it needs to go into action.
Similarly, antivirus software has become very good at eliminating the threats that it knows about! When it scans the websites you visit and the files you download or open, it is comparing them to a list of known threats. If I were to write a virus and send it out with my daily email (don't worry; I won't!), it is possible that no antivirus would catch it because the software doesn't know it exists. In order to keep up with the latest threats, companies that produce antivirus software are constantly sending out new files with information about the latest threats. These files, usually referred to as definitions, are almost always downloaded automatically to your computer when you are online.
Software is becoming better at recognizing certain behavioral traits of viruses so that they can block some threats before they are included in the definitions. While they are sometimes successful, it can be difficult to distinguish between legitimate programs and viruses. For example, a cloud backup program would be identical in function to a virus that copies everything off of your hard drive and sends it to a server in Tajikistan. The only difference would be the destination of the data. An overzealous setting might flag your legitimate cloud backup software as a virus, while looser settings might allow both to operate uninhibited.
Joxean Koret, a researcher with Singapore-based security firm COSENIC, recently gave a presentation where he discussed flaws found in 14 of 17 antivirus products his firm tested. At the end of his presentation, he provided a recommendation for consumers: "Do not blindly trust your antivirus product."
The key word is blindly. Have an antivirus, and use it, but also practice good online habits, such as:
An antivirus program is to your computer what the immune system is to your body. The fact that you have a working immune system does not mean you will never get sick. Even those who take vitamins and supplements to boost their immune system will still find their bodies succumbing to the occasional illness. When a virus enters your body, your immune system only knows to eliminate it if you have had it before and have built a resistance to that virus. If you have never encountered that particular strain of a virus, it may take some time before your body realizes that it needs to go into action.
Similarly, antivirus software has become very good at eliminating the threats that it knows about! When it scans the websites you visit and the files you download or open, it is comparing them to a list of known threats. If I were to write a virus and send it out with my daily email (don't worry; I won't!), it is possible that no antivirus would catch it because the software doesn't know it exists. In order to keep up with the latest threats, companies that produce antivirus software are constantly sending out new files with information about the latest threats. These files, usually referred to as definitions, are almost always downloaded automatically to your computer when you are online.
Software is becoming better at recognizing certain behavioral traits of viruses so that they can block some threats before they are included in the definitions. While they are sometimes successful, it can be difficult to distinguish between legitimate programs and viruses. For example, a cloud backup program would be identical in function to a virus that copies everything off of your hard drive and sends it to a server in Tajikistan. The only difference would be the destination of the data. An overzealous setting might flag your legitimate cloud backup software as a virus, while looser settings might allow both to operate uninhibited.
Joxean Koret, a researcher with Singapore-based security firm COSENIC, recently gave a presentation where he discussed flaws found in 14 of 17 antivirus products his firm tested. At the end of his presentation, he provided a recommendation for consumers: "Do not blindly trust your antivirus product."
The key word is blindly. Have an antivirus, and use it, but also practice good online habits, such as:
- Keep your operating system and other software up-to-date.
- Don't click on links in emails or on social media.
- Don't conduct sensitive business (such as online banking or shopping) on public Wi-Fi.
- Use strong passwords and change them regularly.
- Keep clear of sketchy websites.
- Only download files from reputable sources.
Tuesday, May 26, 2015
Move Quickly Between Browser Tabs
It is hard to believe that there was ever a time that we survived without browser tabs. It is a rare event when I only have one tab open. Currently, I have two browser windows open. One browser window has three open tabs and the other has seven open tabs. Before tabbed browsing, that would have been ten separate windows I would have had open. Even for those who do not open quite as many tabs as me, tabs are still a great way to organize two or three web pages.
However, when you have multiple tabs open at a time, switching between them can take time if you reach for the mouse for each switch. Fortunately, all the major browsers have some key combinations to help you move between tabs more quickly. Even better, the same key combinations are used on Internet Explorer, Google Chrome, and Mozilla Firefox.
Here are a few of the best key combinations to use with tabs:
Open a New Tab: Ctrl + T will open a new tab.
Open the Last Closed Tab: If you accidentally close a tab you wanted open, use Ctrl + Shift + T to reopen it.
Switch Between Tabs: Ctrl + Page Down moves to the next tab. Ctrl + Page Up moves to the previous tab. (I thought this key combination worked on Internet Explorer, but it did not work on my computer.)
Go To a Specific Tab: Use Ctrl + [Number] to advance to a specific tab. For example, Ctrl + 1 moves to the first tab, Ctrl + 2 moves to the second tab, etc. If you have more than eight tabs, this tip will only allow you to move directly to the first eight.
Move to the Last Tab: Regardless of the number of tabs open, Ctrl + 9 moves to the last tab.
However, when you have multiple tabs open at a time, switching between them can take time if you reach for the mouse for each switch. Fortunately, all the major browsers have some key combinations to help you move between tabs more quickly. Even better, the same key combinations are used on Internet Explorer, Google Chrome, and Mozilla Firefox.
Here are a few of the best key combinations to use with tabs:
Open a New Tab: Ctrl + T will open a new tab.
Open the Last Closed Tab: If you accidentally close a tab you wanted open, use Ctrl + Shift + T to reopen it.
Switch Between Tabs: Ctrl + Page Down moves to the next tab. Ctrl + Page Up moves to the previous tab. (I thought this key combination worked on Internet Explorer, but it did not work on my computer.)
Go To a Specific Tab: Use Ctrl + [Number] to advance to a specific tab. For example, Ctrl + 1 moves to the first tab, Ctrl + 2 moves to the second tab, etc. If you have more than eight tabs, this tip will only allow you to move directly to the first eight.
Move to the Last Tab: Regardless of the number of tabs open, Ctrl + 9 moves to the last tab.
Friday, May 22, 2015
How to Create and Understand a Windows Battery Report
If you have Windows 8 (or you are using the preview version of Windows 10) on a laptop, you have a great new feature to help you monitor the health of your battery. To create a battery report, open a command prompt window (search for "cmd") and type the following:
There will be a large amount of information here, and much of it will not directly relate to the health of your battery. However, the numbers you need to look for are the "Design Capacity" and "Full Charge Capacity".
The Design Capacity is the charging capacity your battery was designed to hold. However, after normal use, your battery will not reach its original capacity. The Full Charge Capacity tells how much charge your battery can currently hold on a full charge. Comparing these two numbers can tell you how much of your charging capacity your battery has lost.
You can also check the "Battery Life Estimates" section. This shows you the estimated usage time remaining for your computer, but it shows the numbers for both your battery's current state and the original design state. Using this chart can help you see how much longer a brand new battery would last on your computer's current configuration.
If either of these show a drastic difference, it might be time to replace your battery.
powercfg /batteryreportThen, you can view the report at C:\Users\[Your User Name]\battery report.htm. The file will open in your browser.
There will be a large amount of information here, and much of it will not directly relate to the health of your battery. However, the numbers you need to look for are the "Design Capacity" and "Full Charge Capacity".
The Design Capacity is the charging capacity your battery was designed to hold. However, after normal use, your battery will not reach its original capacity. The Full Charge Capacity tells how much charge your battery can currently hold on a full charge. Comparing these two numbers can tell you how much of your charging capacity your battery has lost.
You can also check the "Battery Life Estimates" section. This shows you the estimated usage time remaining for your computer, but it shows the numbers for both your battery's current state and the original design state. Using this chart can help you see how much longer a brand new battery would last on your computer's current configuration.
If either of these show a drastic difference, it might be time to replace your battery.
Thursday, May 21, 2015
Maintain Confidentiality of Your Document
When you type a Word document, you are usually only thinking about the final outcome. If you have a change or correction that needs to be made, you make it and probably think that the change has disappeared. However, this is not always the case.
Microsoft Office (along with many other programs) does not just save your document, it also tracks the changes you make along the way. This enables use of features such as Undo and Redo, but it can also lead to embarrassment if your file contained confidential information. If you send the file to anyone else, they can also see the changes that were made.
I recently had a contract emailed to me by a company. When I opened the file, I was able to go through it and see other people who had received the same contract (just with their information instead of mine). While I did not pay attention to the details, I contacted the company to inform them of this problem so they could prevent it in the future.
The ability to see text that has been deleted has made national and international headlines before. When the UN released its report on the assassination of Rafic Hariri, the final report contained much less information than the original draft. In fact, the UN removed much of the information regarding who it suspected was responsible for the murder.
If you want to secure your document, go to the "Info" page of the File menu, and select "Manage Versions". From here, you can see if there are changes that can be viewed, and you can eliminate the ability of anyone to go back through previous versions.
Microsoft Office (along with many other programs) does not just save your document, it also tracks the changes you make along the way. This enables use of features such as Undo and Redo, but it can also lead to embarrassment if your file contained confidential information. If you send the file to anyone else, they can also see the changes that were made.
I recently had a contract emailed to me by a company. When I opened the file, I was able to go through it and see other people who had received the same contract (just with their information instead of mine). While I did not pay attention to the details, I contacted the company to inform them of this problem so they could prevent it in the future.
The ability to see text that has been deleted has made national and international headlines before. When the UN released its report on the assassination of Rafic Hariri, the final report contained much less information than the original draft. In fact, the UN removed much of the information regarding who it suspected was responsible for the murder.
If you want to secure your document, go to the "Info" page of the File menu, and select "Manage Versions". From here, you can see if there are changes that can be viewed, and you can eliminate the ability of anyone to go back through previous versions.
Wednesday, May 20, 2015
Set Proper Encryption for your Wireless Network
Wireless networks are wonderful, and the introduction of tablets and smartphones have made them a virtual necessity in almost every home. However, they do have flaws, and they must be properly maintained in order to be secure.
With a wired network, your router will send internet traffic down the proper line, and only your computer will receive traffic intended for it. With a wireless network, the router broadcasts data through the air, and any device with a wireless receiver can read the data as it is sent. If someone is sitting in a car outside your house, they can use a laptop and free software to see everything your wireless router is sending.
While there is no reasonable way to shield someone from seeing your wireless data, you can use encryption to make the data mean nothing to a snooper. In fact, you should not enter a password, social security number, or credit card number on a wireless network that is not using a secure method of encryption. There are three methods of encryption available on most wireless routers: WEP, WPA, and WPA2.
While WEP encryption is better than broadcasting everything without encryption, it is extremely insecure and should be avoided. Security researchers have shown that it is possible to crack WEP encryption very quickly, sometimes in less than a minute. If someone cracks your encryption, having encryption enabled is no better than having no encryption at all.
WPA encryption was developed to overcome WEP's shortfalls. While it is not considered as secure as WPA2, it is still considered to be secure enough for the majority of traffic a home or small business will produce. However, unless you have a router or devices that can only use WPA encryption, there is no reason not to use WPA2.
If you have a router or device that only supports WEP, then it is definitely time to upgrade that device. Using WEP compromises the security of every device on your wireless network. If they support WPA, then use that setting, but you should still make plans to upgrade.
If you don't know what type of encryption your router is using, click on the wireless icon in the bottom corner of your computer, and then hover over your network name. This will bring up a few of your network's settings, including the encryption method. If you want to change it, you will need to access your router's control panel. The exact process will depend on your router. Check your documentation or look at the manufacturer's website.
With a wired network, your router will send internet traffic down the proper line, and only your computer will receive traffic intended for it. With a wireless network, the router broadcasts data through the air, and any device with a wireless receiver can read the data as it is sent. If someone is sitting in a car outside your house, they can use a laptop and free software to see everything your wireless router is sending.
While there is no reasonable way to shield someone from seeing your wireless data, you can use encryption to make the data mean nothing to a snooper. In fact, you should not enter a password, social security number, or credit card number on a wireless network that is not using a secure method of encryption. There are three methods of encryption available on most wireless routers: WEP, WPA, and WPA2.
While WEP encryption is better than broadcasting everything without encryption, it is extremely insecure and should be avoided. Security researchers have shown that it is possible to crack WEP encryption very quickly, sometimes in less than a minute. If someone cracks your encryption, having encryption enabled is no better than having no encryption at all.
WPA encryption was developed to overcome WEP's shortfalls. While it is not considered as secure as WPA2, it is still considered to be secure enough for the majority of traffic a home or small business will produce. However, unless you have a router or devices that can only use WPA encryption, there is no reason not to use WPA2.
If you have a router or device that only supports WEP, then it is definitely time to upgrade that device. Using WEP compromises the security of every device on your wireless network. If they support WPA, then use that setting, but you should still make plans to upgrade.
If you don't know what type of encryption your router is using, click on the wireless icon in the bottom corner of your computer, and then hover over your network name. This will bring up a few of your network's settings, including the encryption method. If you want to change it, you will need to access your router's control panel. The exact process will depend on your router. Check your documentation or look at the manufacturer's website.
Tuesday, May 19, 2015
Save Your Phone from Death by Water
Your phone wasn't meant to join you in the bath or to get washed alongside the dishes, but no matter how careful we try to be, dropping your phone into a body of water is something that could easily happen to all of us. If you want to keep your precious phone from being a drowning victim, here are some steps to take:
1) Shut It Off - Electricity and water do not mix. Once you've fished your phone out of the water, shut it off immediately. If it is already off, don't try to turn it on and see if it works; the water will most likely short out a circuit or chip and damage the phone for good. If your phone has a removable battery, take it out as soon as possible.
2) Take It Apart, Maybe - Take your phone apart as much as you feel comfortable. For some phones, this may mean exposing the circuit board; for others, it may mean doing nothing. However, if your phone is under warranty, do not remove any part that was not designed to be removed. This will void the warranty.
3) Time for an Air Dry - Use compressed air or a hair dryer (without any heat) to try to blow water out of your phone. The more you took your phone apart in step 2, the more effective this step will be. If you were unable to open the phone, focus on blowing air through all the open ports, especially the charging port.
4) Submerge It Again - Instead of submerging it in water, this time you want to submerge it in rice. Put about a pound of rice into an airtight container, and stick your phone in the middle of it. Burp the container to get any excess air out of it, and then let it sit for 72 hours. Removing air from the container will draw water out of the phone, where the rice will absorb it.
5) Try It - After 3 days of waiting, it is time to try out your device. Nothing can guarantee your phone will work after it has been submerged in water, but following these steps will give you the best chance at avoiding a trip to your cell phone provider for a new phone.
1) Shut It Off - Electricity and water do not mix. Once you've fished your phone out of the water, shut it off immediately. If it is already off, don't try to turn it on and see if it works; the water will most likely short out a circuit or chip and damage the phone for good. If your phone has a removable battery, take it out as soon as possible.
2) Take It Apart, Maybe - Take your phone apart as much as you feel comfortable. For some phones, this may mean exposing the circuit board; for others, it may mean doing nothing. However, if your phone is under warranty, do not remove any part that was not designed to be removed. This will void the warranty.
3) Time for an Air Dry - Use compressed air or a hair dryer (without any heat) to try to blow water out of your phone. The more you took your phone apart in step 2, the more effective this step will be. If you were unable to open the phone, focus on blowing air through all the open ports, especially the charging port.
4) Submerge It Again - Instead of submerging it in water, this time you want to submerge it in rice. Put about a pound of rice into an airtight container, and stick your phone in the middle of it. Burp the container to get any excess air out of it, and then let it sit for 72 hours. Removing air from the container will draw water out of the phone, where the rice will absorb it.
5) Try It - After 3 days of waiting, it is time to try out your device. Nothing can guarantee your phone will work after it has been submerged in water, but following these steps will give you the best chance at avoiding a trip to your cell phone provider for a new phone.
Monday, May 18, 2015
Four Alternatives to PayPal
When we think about systems for making online payments, PayPal is probably the one that comes to mind first. PayPal's connection to (and eventual takeover by) eBay sparked its rise to prominence. I use PayPal whenever I can because I prefer to keep my credit card numbers away from as many sites as possible. However, if you do not (or cannot) use PayPal, there are other alternatives you can consider to make online payments. Here are four PayPal alternatives:
1) Dwolla - Dwolla is becoming popular with merchants because it has very small transaction fees. Dwolla charges 25 cents per transaction with the fee waived for purchases under $10. However, Dwolla does not accept credit card payments; you must link your checking account with your Dwolla account.
2) Amazon Payments - Amazon got into the payments business in 2008, but it has suprisingly made very little headway given the dominance of Amazon in other markets. Amazon Payments requires very little set up; in fact, if Amazon already has your credit card, you might not have to do anything except log in to your Amazon account. Amazon Payments also includes purchase protection. Buyers using Amazon Payments will have no fees; sellers will be charged 2.9% of the transaction.
3) Google Wallet - Google Wallet allows you to make purchases online or in-person using a compatible smartphone. You can also use it to send money to any person who has a Gmail address. Plus, you can get a card linked to your Google Wallet account and spend the money in your Google Wallet anywhere MasterCard is accepted.
4) Apple Pay - Apple Pay is an iPhone-based payment system currently limited to a few Apple devices. However, if you have a supported device and a supported card, Apple Pay is becoming widely accepted at many major merchants. Plus, if you lose your device, you can disable Apple Pay through your iCloud account.
1) Dwolla - Dwolla is becoming popular with merchants because it has very small transaction fees. Dwolla charges 25 cents per transaction with the fee waived for purchases under $10. However, Dwolla does not accept credit card payments; you must link your checking account with your Dwolla account.
2) Amazon Payments - Amazon got into the payments business in 2008, but it has suprisingly made very little headway given the dominance of Amazon in other markets. Amazon Payments requires very little set up; in fact, if Amazon already has your credit card, you might not have to do anything except log in to your Amazon account. Amazon Payments also includes purchase protection. Buyers using Amazon Payments will have no fees; sellers will be charged 2.9% of the transaction.
3) Google Wallet - Google Wallet allows you to make purchases online or in-person using a compatible smartphone. You can also use it to send money to any person who has a Gmail address. Plus, you can get a card linked to your Google Wallet account and spend the money in your Google Wallet anywhere MasterCard is accepted.
4) Apple Pay - Apple Pay is an iPhone-based payment system currently limited to a few Apple devices. However, if you have a supported device and a supported card, Apple Pay is becoming widely accepted at many major merchants. Plus, if you lose your device, you can disable Apple Pay through your iCloud account.
Friday, May 15, 2015
Use Print Screen to Show a Problem
One of the biggest problems with providing computer support over the phone is that I cannot actually see what is happening on the computer. While there are tools that will allow me to see and work on a customer's computer from my own computer, some people are concerned about the security of these programs.
However, there are occasions when simply reading the text of an error message is not enough for me to be able to figure out the problem. The window containing the error message will sometimes have small clues that can assist with troubleshooting the problem, but without seeing the window, I will not be able to easily pick up on these clues. Other times, I may be lost while trying to help someone over the phone, and I may want to see what is on the screen to help me get back on track.
It is in these situations where I use today's tip. If I need to see what is on a screen that I cannot see, I simply tell the person to use Ctrl + Print Screen. (Print screen is usually located above the Insert and Delete keys to the right of the standard keyboard. On a laptop keyboard, you may have to look carefully for the correct key.) The Ctrl + Print Screen command will take a snapshot of your entire screen and place it on the clipboard. You can then paste it into a Word document or into the Paint program to save and email as an attachment. If you only want to take a snapshot of the current window instead of the entire screen, you can use Alt + Print Screen, and then paste it into a Word document or Paint file. In Windows 8, using the Windows key + Print Screen will save the file automatically in your pictures folder.
This tool can be useful to someone who is not a computer tech for many reasons. If you are having a problem with a particular program, providing an exact copy of the error message when asking for support can speed up the support process. It also helps to show what happens if you run into problems following the instructions. If you are trying to help someone learn how to accomplish something, you can take pictures of your screen at each step, and you can even circle buttons or draw arrows to links over top of the picture to stress what they need to do.
There are many more reasons why you might want to take a picture of your screen. I have simply tried to highlight a few of the most common reasons here. As a final note, if you forget this command or if the operating system will not load (meaning the Print Screen feature won't work), you can always pull out a cell phone or tablet and take a picture of your monitor.
However, there are occasions when simply reading the text of an error message is not enough for me to be able to figure out the problem. The window containing the error message will sometimes have small clues that can assist with troubleshooting the problem, but without seeing the window, I will not be able to easily pick up on these clues. Other times, I may be lost while trying to help someone over the phone, and I may want to see what is on the screen to help me get back on track.
It is in these situations where I use today's tip. If I need to see what is on a screen that I cannot see, I simply tell the person to use Ctrl + Print Screen. (Print screen is usually located above the Insert and Delete keys to the right of the standard keyboard. On a laptop keyboard, you may have to look carefully for the correct key.) The Ctrl + Print Screen command will take a snapshot of your entire screen and place it on the clipboard. You can then paste it into a Word document or into the Paint program to save and email as an attachment. If you only want to take a snapshot of the current window instead of the entire screen, you can use Alt + Print Screen, and then paste it into a Word document or Paint file. In Windows 8, using the Windows key + Print Screen will save the file automatically in your pictures folder.
This tool can be useful to someone who is not a computer tech for many reasons. If you are having a problem with a particular program, providing an exact copy of the error message when asking for support can speed up the support process. It also helps to show what happens if you run into problems following the instructions. If you are trying to help someone learn how to accomplish something, you can take pictures of your screen at each step, and you can even circle buttons or draw arrows to links over top of the picture to stress what they need to do.
There are many more reasons why you might want to take a picture of your screen. I have simply tried to highlight a few of the most common reasons here. As a final note, if you forget this command or if the operating system will not load (meaning the Print Screen feature won't work), you can always pull out a cell phone or tablet and take a picture of your monitor.
Thursday, May 14, 2015
Learn to Use Windows and Office
Upgrading new software can sometimes be a complicated process. Recently, when I upgraded the financial management software for my business to the latest version, I ran into problems opening my files in the software. After several phone calls to their technical support team, we finally isolated the problem and were able to solve it. However, even if the new software runs perfectly, locating the features you want can be a problem.
When Microsoft released Office 2007, it came with a completely different look from earlier versions. The toolbars that graced the top of your screen were now replaced with ribbons. When I first upgraded from Office 2003 to Office 2010 (I skipped the 2007 version), I had trouble finding all the features I wanted. However, after using it for almost two years now, I now know exactly where the features I use the most are located.
The same problem happened when Microsoft released Windows 8. Microsoft made so many changes to Windows that it became more difficult to find the features you need. One of the biggest complaints I hear about Windows 8 is that it has become more difficult to accomplish the same tasks. While I actually like Windows 8 overall (especially since the Windows 8.1 upgrade was released), I can understand the frustrations of others.
Fortunately, Microsoft has released guides to help learn its new software. Below, I have linked to guides to Office 2013, Windows 7, and Windows 8. While Microsoft has only released its guides for Office 2013, many of the features will work on Office 2007 and 2010. The Office guides are in PDF format. The Windows guides are web-based, but the Windows 7 offers a PDF option in addition to the videos.
Office 2013
Windows 7
Windows 8
When Microsoft released Office 2007, it came with a completely different look from earlier versions. The toolbars that graced the top of your screen were now replaced with ribbons. When I first upgraded from Office 2003 to Office 2010 (I skipped the 2007 version), I had trouble finding all the features I wanted. However, after using it for almost two years now, I now know exactly where the features I use the most are located.
The same problem happened when Microsoft released Windows 8. Microsoft made so many changes to Windows that it became more difficult to find the features you need. One of the biggest complaints I hear about Windows 8 is that it has become more difficult to accomplish the same tasks. While I actually like Windows 8 overall (especially since the Windows 8.1 upgrade was released), I can understand the frustrations of others.
Fortunately, Microsoft has released guides to help learn its new software. Below, I have linked to guides to Office 2013, Windows 7, and Windows 8. While Microsoft has only released its guides for Office 2013, many of the features will work on Office 2007 and 2010. The Office guides are in PDF format. The Windows guides are web-based, but the Windows 7 offers a PDF option in addition to the videos.
Office 2013
Windows 7
Windows 8
Wednesday, May 13, 2015
Making Use of the Aero Interface
If you have Windows 7 or 8, you have the Aero interface built in to your desktop, unless you have disabled it. (Vista also has a version of the Aero interface, but the features of this tip do not work.) The Aero interface contains several very useful features that you might want to try out and use on a regular basis. Here are four of the most useful uses:
1) Areo Peek - When you have a window open, hover your mouse over the taskbar icon to see a thumbnail of the window. This is useful if you have multiple windows open for the same program, and you want to see which window you are maximizing before you open it.
2) Aero Snap - Aero snap is perhaps the most useful tool in Windows 7 (at least for me). This allows you to "snap" a window to your monitor. There are two different ways to snap. First, you can drag the window to the very top of your monitor. Before you release the mouse, you will see a small circle that expands to fill the screen. After you see the circle, you can release the mouse, and the window you are dragging will instantly fill the screen.
You can also snap to the right or left side of your screen. This will cause the current window to fill only the half of the screen you are snapping it to. This is very useful when you have two windows you want to use simultaneously.
3) Aero Shake - By grabbing the title bar of a window and quickly shaking it back and forth, you can quickly minimize all other windows. Shaking the window again will restore all the windows you minimized.
4) View Desktop - On the far right side of the taskbar (just to the right of the clock), there is a small button. (The button usually blends in with the clock until you hover your mouse over it.) Clicking on this button will minimize all windows and show you the desktop. Clicking it again will restore all windows. In Windows 7, you can hover over the button and have all windows disappear until you move the mouse again.
1) Areo Peek - When you have a window open, hover your mouse over the taskbar icon to see a thumbnail of the window. This is useful if you have multiple windows open for the same program, and you want to see which window you are maximizing before you open it.
2) Aero Snap - Aero snap is perhaps the most useful tool in Windows 7 (at least for me). This allows you to "snap" a window to your monitor. There are two different ways to snap. First, you can drag the window to the very top of your monitor. Before you release the mouse, you will see a small circle that expands to fill the screen. After you see the circle, you can release the mouse, and the window you are dragging will instantly fill the screen.
You can also snap to the right or left side of your screen. This will cause the current window to fill only the half of the screen you are snapping it to. This is very useful when you have two windows you want to use simultaneously.
3) Aero Shake - By grabbing the title bar of a window and quickly shaking it back and forth, you can quickly minimize all other windows. Shaking the window again will restore all the windows you minimized.
4) View Desktop - On the far right side of the taskbar (just to the right of the clock), there is a small button. (The button usually blends in with the clock until you hover your mouse over it.) Clicking on this button will minimize all windows and show you the desktop. Clicking it again will restore all windows. In Windows 7, you can hover over the button and have all windows disappear until you move the mouse again.
Tuesday, May 12, 2015
Keyboard Shortcuts That Will Save You Time
It takes time to switch back and forth between the mouse and the keyboard. However, there are many things that you can do with just the keyboard. Here are four excellent keyboard shortcuts that will keep you from having to switch to the mouse:
1) Switch Between Programs Easily - If you need to switch between two different programs or two windows of the same program, you can use the Alt+Tab (meaning you hold down the Alt key while you hit Tab) key combination to switch between them. The first time you hit the Tab key, you will see a list of programs you have open, arranged in the order you last used them. If you continue to hold down the Alt key, you can hit the tab key multiple times to cycle between the open windows. When you reach the window you want, release the Alt key to switch to that window.
2) Close Programs without a Mouse - If your hands are already on your keyboard and you need to close the program you are working with, you can use the key command Alt+F4.
Bonus Tip: If you are working in a browser with tabs, you can close only the current tab with the key command Ctrl+W. This command also works in Microsoft Office and some other programs that allow for multiple files to be open within the same window.
3) Cut, Copy, and Paste - This tip is actually three-in-one. The cut, copy, and paste commands are invaluable tools. However, you can access them without needing to move your hands from the keyboard. You can cut using the key combination Ctrl+X, and you can copy using the key combination Ctrl+C. Pasting what you cut or copied earlier can be accomplished by using Ctrl+V. These three combinations may seem hard to remember, but it is easier once you realize that the three keys are all next to each other on the keyboard. Using these commands in combination with the fourth item will allow you to cut, copy, and paste without needing the mouse.
4) Select Text - If you are editing a Word document or any other file where you have a cursor, holding down the Shift key and navigating with the arrow keys will allow me to select text. Unfortunately, this does not work in most web pages, where you do not have a cursor to designate the starting point.
1) Switch Between Programs Easily - If you need to switch between two different programs or two windows of the same program, you can use the Alt+Tab (meaning you hold down the Alt key while you hit Tab) key combination to switch between them. The first time you hit the Tab key, you will see a list of programs you have open, arranged in the order you last used them. If you continue to hold down the Alt key, you can hit the tab key multiple times to cycle between the open windows. When you reach the window you want, release the Alt key to switch to that window.
2) Close Programs without a Mouse - If your hands are already on your keyboard and you need to close the program you are working with, you can use the key command Alt+F4.
Bonus Tip: If you are working in a browser with tabs, you can close only the current tab with the key command Ctrl+W. This command also works in Microsoft Office and some other programs that allow for multiple files to be open within the same window.
3) Cut, Copy, and Paste - This tip is actually three-in-one. The cut, copy, and paste commands are invaluable tools. However, you can access them without needing to move your hands from the keyboard. You can cut using the key combination Ctrl+X, and you can copy using the key combination Ctrl+C. Pasting what you cut or copied earlier can be accomplished by using Ctrl+V. These three combinations may seem hard to remember, but it is easier once you realize that the three keys are all next to each other on the keyboard. Using these commands in combination with the fourth item will allow you to cut, copy, and paste without needing the mouse.
4) Select Text - If you are editing a Word document or any other file where you have a cursor, holding down the Shift key and navigating with the arrow keys will allow me to select text. Unfortunately, this does not work in most web pages, where you do not have a cursor to designate the starting point.
Monday, May 11, 2015
Do You Need an 'AC' Router?
Home networks used to be something that only a few people set up. However, with game consoles, streaming TV gadgets, tablets, smartphones, and computers all competing for internet access, a home network is a must-have for almost every home. At the center of your network is your router.
Your router is the device that takes your incoming internet traffic and sends it to the right place. Otherwise, you might find your son's email showing up on your TV screen where your Netflix movie was supposed to be.
If you go to a store to buy a new router, the salesperson will likely try to impress you with information about letters and speeds. "If you buy THIS 'ac' router, you can get speeds up to 1.75 Gigabits..." But what does all that really mean?
The Institute for Electrical and Electronics Engineers designates code numbers for various topics. For Wi-Fi, the code is 802.11. If you look carefully, you will see this on almost every box for a wireless router. As the standards for Wi-Fi communication have been revised, they have been given letters that follow the 802.11. The initial standards were 802.11a, then it was revised to 802.11b, etc. With each revision came improvements in speed, security, and other features.
Most of these revisions are not readily available. Some are experimental, and some just fail to catch on. Until last year, the most common revisions were 802.11b, 802.11g, and 802.11n. However, the 802.11ac standard was released last year (since there have now been more than 26 revisions, we are now using two-letter codes.) This standard promises much faster internet, allowing for speeds even faster than wired ethernet.
However, this does not mean you should go out right now and buy a new 'ac' router. In order to communicate at the faster speeds, both your router and your devices need to support the new standard. If the majority of your devices are over two years old, they certainly will not support this new standard. Even many devices produced within the last year still do not support this standard. There is certainly no point in buying a new router, only to find out that your devices cannot communicate at the fast speed you were expecting, unless you are planning to upgrade most of your devices within the next year or two.
If you are unsure what types of Wi-Fi your devices support, check the documentation in print or online. Look for that 802.11 number and see what letters follow it. (It is often written as 802.11b/g/n, meaning that it supports the b, g, and n standards.) Then, if you are in the market for a new router, buy one that communicates at the fastest speed your devices support, unless you are planning to upgrade devices soon.
Eventually, the 'ac' standard will become as common as the 'g' or 'n' standards. However, until it does, you are wasting your money unless you know that your devices, or the devices you plan to buy soon, support that standard.
Your router is the device that takes your incoming internet traffic and sends it to the right place. Otherwise, you might find your son's email showing up on your TV screen where your Netflix movie was supposed to be.
If you go to a store to buy a new router, the salesperson will likely try to impress you with information about letters and speeds. "If you buy THIS 'ac' router, you can get speeds up to 1.75 Gigabits..." But what does all that really mean?
The Institute for Electrical and Electronics Engineers designates code numbers for various topics. For Wi-Fi, the code is 802.11. If you look carefully, you will see this on almost every box for a wireless router. As the standards for Wi-Fi communication have been revised, they have been given letters that follow the 802.11. The initial standards were 802.11a, then it was revised to 802.11b, etc. With each revision came improvements in speed, security, and other features.
Most of these revisions are not readily available. Some are experimental, and some just fail to catch on. Until last year, the most common revisions were 802.11b, 802.11g, and 802.11n. However, the 802.11ac standard was released last year (since there have now been more than 26 revisions, we are now using two-letter codes.) This standard promises much faster internet, allowing for speeds even faster than wired ethernet.
However, this does not mean you should go out right now and buy a new 'ac' router. In order to communicate at the faster speeds, both your router and your devices need to support the new standard. If the majority of your devices are over two years old, they certainly will not support this new standard. Even many devices produced within the last year still do not support this standard. There is certainly no point in buying a new router, only to find out that your devices cannot communicate at the fast speed you were expecting, unless you are planning to upgrade most of your devices within the next year or two.
If you are unsure what types of Wi-Fi your devices support, check the documentation in print or online. Look for that 802.11 number and see what letters follow it. (It is often written as 802.11b/g/n, meaning that it supports the b, g, and n standards.) Then, if you are in the market for a new router, buy one that communicates at the fastest speed your devices support, unless you are planning to upgrade devices soon.
Eventually, the 'ac' standard will become as common as the 'g' or 'n' standards. However, until it does, you are wasting your money unless you know that your devices, or the devices you plan to buy soon, support that standard.
Wednesday, May 6, 2015
What Happens When Your Device Is Stolen?
I can honestly say I have never lost any device, but that does not mean it could never happen to me. In fact, I had a scare a few weeks ago when I could not locate my phone for several hours. (My white S3 was sitting on top of paper!) The fact that I almost lost my phone made me think seriously about the security of my devices in case one did end up in the wrong hands.
The exact security features you need depend on the sensitivity of the information the device contains. For basic personal use, some of these suggestions may be overkill. However, for business use--especially if you access confidential business data--you may need to go with all-out protection. Consider what information your device has and choose your security level accordingly.
Here are some ideas to keep your mobile devices secure:
1) Remote Wipe - This is a basic feature that should be a part of each device's security. If you access anything that requires a password on a device, you should enable remote wipe so that you can clean the device if it is stolen. While this may not deter professional criminals from accessing your data, it will protect your information from casual snoopers.
Remote wipe is available in both Android and iOS. You can get the same features on a laptop by using Lojack (for a cost) or Prey (free). More on these in the next point.
2) Tracking - Let's start by facing this fact: it is unlikely that you will get your stolen device back. Once a thief realizes it is being tracked, it is much more likely to end up destroyed or in a landfill than returned. However, that does not mean you should not plan to try.
Even if you do not have tracking software, some of your accounts--like Gmail, Dropbox, and Evernote--may show you the IP addresses of users who logged in. If the thief logs in to your account, it will be logged. While it is unlikely, it may be possible to catch the thief using this information.
However, you may have more success if you install professional tracking software on your device. Lojack's paid software can track the location of your device any time it is connected. It can even be configured to do a remote wipe of your hard drive. For a cheaper alternative, Prey is free for up to three devices and comes with many of the same features.
3) Encryption - The latest versions of iOS and Android now use encryption by default, but most laptops still have unencrypted hard drives. This means that anyone can remove the hard drive from your laptop and plug it into another computer to see your data.
If you handle sensitive data, you should consider using encryption. TrueCrypt is a free encryption program that can encrypt your hard drive (or parts of it). If you have Windows 7 Ultimate or Windows 8/8.1 Pro, you can also enable BitLocker to encrypt your hard drive. Both of these options will help keep your sensitive data safe.
If you really want to protect your data, you can look for an encrypted hard drive. These drives will encrypt everything as it is stored without the need for any encryption software.
The exact security features you need depend on the sensitivity of the information the device contains. For basic personal use, some of these suggestions may be overkill. However, for business use--especially if you access confidential business data--you may need to go with all-out protection. Consider what information your device has and choose your security level accordingly.
Here are some ideas to keep your mobile devices secure:
1) Remote Wipe - This is a basic feature that should be a part of each device's security. If you access anything that requires a password on a device, you should enable remote wipe so that you can clean the device if it is stolen. While this may not deter professional criminals from accessing your data, it will protect your information from casual snoopers.
Remote wipe is available in both Android and iOS. You can get the same features on a laptop by using Lojack (for a cost) or Prey (free). More on these in the next point.
2) Tracking - Let's start by facing this fact: it is unlikely that you will get your stolen device back. Once a thief realizes it is being tracked, it is much more likely to end up destroyed or in a landfill than returned. However, that does not mean you should not plan to try.
Even if you do not have tracking software, some of your accounts--like Gmail, Dropbox, and Evernote--may show you the IP addresses of users who logged in. If the thief logs in to your account, it will be logged. While it is unlikely, it may be possible to catch the thief using this information.
However, you may have more success if you install professional tracking software on your device. Lojack's paid software can track the location of your device any time it is connected. It can even be configured to do a remote wipe of your hard drive. For a cheaper alternative, Prey is free for up to three devices and comes with many of the same features.
3) Encryption - The latest versions of iOS and Android now use encryption by default, but most laptops still have unencrypted hard drives. This means that anyone can remove the hard drive from your laptop and plug it into another computer to see your data.
If you handle sensitive data, you should consider using encryption. TrueCrypt is a free encryption program that can encrypt your hard drive (or parts of it). If you have Windows 7 Ultimate or Windows 8/8.1 Pro, you can also enable BitLocker to encrypt your hard drive. Both of these options will help keep your sensitive data safe.
If you really want to protect your data, you can look for an encrypted hard drive. These drives will encrypt everything as it is stored without the need for any encryption software.
Tuesday, May 5, 2015
Is Your Browser Compromising Your Privacy?
It is a fact of life that many websites use cookies on our computer to track our behavior. Protecting our privacy by stopping those cookies from getting on our system takes work. However, even the best system can still be vulnerable to other methods of identification. One area where your privacy could be compromised is through your browser.
When we communicate with a website, we usually only think about the things that we see on the screen. We type in an address "amazon.com", and we think our computer goes and gets the latest statuses from Facebook. However, Amazon's servers request more information so that they can send the site in a way that is readable by your computer.
The Panopticlick site by the Electronic Frontier Foundation will tell you how unique your browser is based on a variety of values you send to every site you visit. Even when you use a proxy service, a VPN, or Tor to mask your computer's identity, your browser fingerprint could still give you away. According to Panopticlick's site, only 1 in 2.67 million browsers have a fingerprint identical to mine.
You can test the uniqueness of your browser at the Panopticlick site by clicking here.
When we communicate with a website, we usually only think about the things that we see on the screen. We type in an address "amazon.com", and we think our computer goes and gets the latest statuses from Facebook. However, Amazon's servers request more information so that they can send the site in a way that is readable by your computer.
The Panopticlick site by the Electronic Frontier Foundation will tell you how unique your browser is based on a variety of values you send to every site you visit. Even when you use a proxy service, a VPN, or Tor to mask your computer's identity, your browser fingerprint could still give you away. According to Panopticlick's site, only 1 in 2.67 million browsers have a fingerprint identical to mine.
You can test the uniqueness of your browser at the Panopticlick site by clicking here.
Monday, May 4, 2015
When Electricity Ruins Your Computer
If you read the title of today's tip, you are probably thinking something like, "Doesn't my computer need electricity?" Yes, of course, it does need electricity to function, whether the electricty comes from a wall outlet or a battery inside the device. However, electricity can also ruin your devices if it is not handled properly.
Here are three ways that electricity can ruin an electronic device:
1) Static Electricity - Did you know that you carry electricity on you? It's what makes your hair stand up when you rub a balloon on it. It can also be what destroys your computer if you don't take adequate precautions before you work inside of it.
The exterior of your computer (and other exterior equipment, like a keyboard, mouse, or monitor) are designed to protect against static electricity, so you do not need to worry about static while you are using a computer. However, if you decide to look inside the case (or underneath the plastic covering on a laptop) for any reason, then you need to be concerned about static.
When you can feel static electricity on you (or you experience the static shock when you touch another object), you are experiencing a minimum of 3000 volts. Some of the components inside a computer can be destroyed by a shock of less than 1000 volts. This means that you can destroy a component inside the computer without even realizing you had a strong static charge on you at all.
If you decide to do any work inside your computer, use an antistatic wrist strap. You can purchase them almost anywhere for much less than it would take to replace a component inside your computer. If you must work inside of it and you do not have a strap available, then touch a metal component on the case with one hand while you work with the other hand.
2) Power Surges - Small power surges occur on a regular basis. While the electric company tries to keep the power at a constant rate, there are numerous factors that can impact the voltage you actually receive. However, there can be occasional times when the power surges more than normal. It could be caused by a failure at a power substation or a high-voltage line falling onto a low-voltage line. It could also be caused by two wires inside your house inadvertently touching.
If your device receives too much power, it can damage internal components. You can keep your equipment safe from power surges by using a surge protector. Surge protectors will kick in when the power surges and ground the extra power.
It is important to note, however, that surge protectors are only capable of grounding a certain amount of power. Once that amount of power has been grounded, the surge protector will stop protecting your devices (it will continue to function like any other power strip, but there will be no surge protection.) Some surge protectors have an indicator light that will come on or go out when it has reached its limit, but not all do. Therefore, it is important to replace your surge protectors on a regular basis.
If you know your surge protector has taken a hit (for example, you know that a high voltage line hit a low voltage line in your neighborhood), you should replace your surge protector right away. Otherwise, you should replace your surge protector every two to three years, depending on the quality of the surge protector.
3) Internal Surges - Power surges from outside your home are not the only power surges you need to worry about. A power surge can also come from inside your device. Most electric devices use Direct Current (DC) power, but DC power cannot be transmitted over electric lines for long distances. Therefore, power comes into your home as Alternating Current (AC) power. Your DC devices need to convert power from AC to DC in order to work.
Desktop computers have a built-in power supply that does this conversion (and also converts power into several different voltage levels). For mobile devices, this conversion is done on a small box along the power line. If the power supply stops functioning properly, your device could get too much power.
For mobile devices, check the power supply for physical damage on a regular basis, and replace it if you notice any. Also, check the wires leading to your device and replace them if they are damaged. Finally, listen for any strange noises coming from the power supply. If you hear one, then it is time to replace the power supply. Even if it is still functioning now, it is probably about to go out, and a power surge could wipe out additional parts inside of your computer.
4) Lightening - A lightening strike on your home could result in 1,000,000 volts or more coming down your electrical lines. No surge protector is designed to handle this amount of electricity. (Your electric company does have a device that will completely shut off power in such an instance, but they are extremely expensive to have installed.)
However, unlike the other instances, we do have some advance warning for lightening. If the weather forecast is predicting a storm, then it is probably best to unplug your computer. When there is lightening in the area, then it is definitely time to unplug all of your devices from their charges until it passes. If you are going to be away for a longer period of time, then unplug your computer so that a storm cannot hit it.
Yes, the chances of being impacted by a lightening strike are very small, but the damage they will do can be significant. Don't take your chances if you can avoid it!
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