Search for Sex Offenders Near You

Tonight, millions of kids across the country will take to the streets for trick-or-treating.  Obviously, for parents, safety is an important concern when your kids will be knocking on the doors of people you may not know.

One thing you can check (even when it is not Halloween) are the state and national sex offender registries.  While it only lists those who have been caught and are keeping their information up-to-date, it can be helpful to know if there is an offender living near you.

You can view the registry at http://www.nsopw.gov/.

Fix a Scratched CD/DVD

As careful as we may try to be, sometimes our CDs or DVDs end up getting scratched.  However, a scratch does not automatically mean that your disc has become an expensive coaster for your living room table.  There still may be ways to restore your disc to optimal condition.

Two quick notes:  first, it is important to understand that your best option is to not let your disc get scratched.  Any of these methods for repairing a scratch may help, but they also have the potential to hurt the disc.  Second, whenever possible, it is advisable to make a backup copy of your disc on your computer or on another disc.  Burning a backup copy of a disc is legal as long as it is only for personal use and it does not circumvent any digital rights protections built in.

Once a scratch does occur, the first step to take would be to clean the surface with a jewelry-polishing cloth.  These cloths are fairly inexpensive and available at most stores that sell jewelry.  This removes some of the dust and dirt that can accumulate in the scratches and eliminates other areas of the disc as the problem.  (You might find that the light scratch isn't the problem at all).  To avoid causing further damage, rub the disc from the center to the outside and back, not along a circular path.

If this does not work, you can use a variety of substances to try to fill in the scratch.  I have heard of people using car wax, furniture polish, petroleum jelly, and even banana to fill it in.  I would recommend the car wax personally, but you can choose whatever you have available.  Once again, always be sure to rub from the center to the outside of the disc, and make sure you give it plenty of time to dry (overnight would be best) and clean it thoroughly before putting it back in your DVD player.

If you can't find any substance that will repair the scratch, then it might be time to approach it from a different angle.  If you have a cheap or older player, find a friend with a new player that was reasonably expensive.  Technology is always improving, and it might have improved enough so that the latest players can read what your older device cannot.  This might have the lowest probability of success, but it is worth a shot if nothing else is working.  If it works on your friend's player, it might be time to upgrade yours.

Finally, when you have run out of options to do it yourself, turn to your local movie rental store.  Almost all of them have devices that will buff dics and remove the scratches.  Find a friendly-looking clerk, explain the situation, and see if the clerk will help you out.  Obviously, they are under no obligation to help you, but it would make business sense for them to do so.  You could go the DIY route and buy a machine yourself, but unless you have a lot of scratched discs, your wallet would probably be better off replacing your scratched discs.

If the $500+ machine at the movie-rental store can't help you, then it is time to buy a new disc or say goodbye to your movie or music.  Obviously, with a music CD, you can always burn the unaffected tracks to a new CD to use in the meantime.

Do I Really Need to 'Safely Remove Device'?

Most of us know that we should use the "Safely Remove Device" feature in Windows before removing a flash drive (or any other type of USB device) from our computer.  And most of us have probably figured out that you can simply pull the drive out and your files will still be there the next time.

If you don't know what I am talking about, each time you want to remove a USB drive (flash drive, external hard drive, etc.), Microsoft says you should go to the notification area of the taskbar (near the clock),  click on the small icon that looks like a flash drive, and then select "Eject [Name of Drive]".

That brings us to the question:  Is the "Safely Remove Device" feature even necessary?  And the answer is:  Definitely!

Yes, it is true that you can usually unplug a drive without any problem, but that is not always the case.  There are many things that could be happening in the background that could harm your data if you do not use this feature.  First, if the drive is in use, the files in use will most likely be corrupted.  Using "Safely Remove Device" will prevent you from corrupting those files.

However, sometimes the drive will be in use when you don't realize it.  The drive could be rewriting its file system (the directory of all the files on the drive).  You might think it is okay to just pull the drive out because you haven't used the drive for several minutes, but if the file system is being modified and becomes corrupted when you pull the drive out, everything on the drive will be lost.  Safely removing the drive will stop the rewrite at a safe place so you can remove the drive.

Second, you can enable performance features on a drive that make it even more important to use this feature.  Windows can be programmed to cache data being written to a drive.  This saves the data on your hard drive until Windows determines that it is best to write it to the flash drive.  (This can keep your system from becoming strained by low resources or demanding programs.)  While this feature is disabled by default, you probably cannot tell me for sure that caching has been disabled on your computer without checking.  It is best to treat your files as safe as you can!

For these two reasons alone, it is best to always safely remove your device before you remove it.  In fact, the only time you should remove a drive without this feature is if you have already shut the computer off.  Otherwise, the few seconds you save by not using this feature will be more than wasted if you have to recreate all the files on the drive or spend time and/or money trying to recover data.

One Important Setting to Check

I recently replaced the power jack on a laptop, but when I finished replacing it, I found that the computer would not completely boot.  While I do not know the exact reason for the problem, my suspicion is that Windows was in the process of performing an update when the system lost power.  There would have been a simple way to fix the boot process, but unfortunately, this computer had that feature disabled.

The System Restore feature will allow your system to recover from many problems, including malware, a corrupt registry, or a failed update.  However, if it is disabled, you will find that you have no restore points available when you need to use it!

Unless you have a very good reason for disabling it, I highly recommend that you enable System Restore.  This feature may not only allow you to recover your system from a failure, but it may also save your important files from the Cryptolocker or Cryptowall ransomware.  These programs encrypt your files and require you to pay a fee to get the encryption key to decrypt them.  However, System Restore may save shadow copies of your files that will remain unencrypted.  They may not be the most up-to-date versions of your files, but they are better than either losing them completely or having to pay the ransom to get your files back.

To see if you have System Restore enabled, follow these instructions:

Windows Vista:

1) On the start menu, right click on Computer and choose Properties.

2) Click on System Protection on the left side.

3) Respond to a UAC box if it appears.

4) About halfway down the window, look for your main hard drive.  It will usually say "(System)" after it.  If the box in front of it is checked, you are fine.

5) If the box is not checked, then check it and hit Apply.

6) If you just enabled System Restore, click on the Create button to create a restore point right now.

Windows 7:

1) On the start menu, right click on Computer and choose Properties.

2) Click on System Protection on the left side.

3) About halfway down the window, look for your main hard drive.  It will usually say "(System)" after it.  If it says "On", you are fine.

4) If it says "Off", then select the drive and click on Configure.  Then select, "Restore system settings and previous versions of files".

5) If you just enabled System Restore, click on the Create button to create a restore point right now.


Windows 8/8.1:

1) Go to the charms bar, and select Settings, then PC Info.

2) Click on System Protection on the left side.

3) About halfway down the window, look for your main hard drive.  It will usually say "(System)" after it.  If it says "On", you are fine.

4) If it says "Off", then select the drive and click on Configure.  Then select, "Turn on system protection".

5) If you just enabled System Restore, click on the Create button to create a restore point right now.

Why You Need to Install an Ad Blocker

The Register is reporting on a new variant of the Cryptowall ransomware that is spread through advertising networks.  These ads are approved by the network (Yahoo, Google, etc.) and only require that they be displayed on the site (they do not require that you actually click on them).

If you are not familiar with Cryptowall, it is a ransomware program that will encrypt all your personal files and then require a payment in order to obtain the encryption key to unencrypt the files.  While antivirus software may be able to remove Cryptowall from your system, it will not be able to decrypt your files.

Since Cryptowall (and other malware served through advertising) can get on your computer simply by being chosen to receive the malicious advertisement, the best thing you can do to prevent it is to install an ad blocker into your preferred browser.  Personally, I use Ad Block Plus.  You can download it through the add-on manager of your browser or by visiting the website and clicking on the download link.  If you use multiple browsers, you will need to install it in each one.

It took me many years to install an ad blocker because I felt that advertising was an important part of maintaining free access to information on the internet.  However, the neglect of some advertising companies to screen for malware in their advertisements (this is not the first time an advertising network has propagated malicious advertising) has caused me to rethink my position.  Since we cannot control the advertising network sites choose to use or force those networks to implement better screening procedures, we must take whatever steps necessary to protect our computers.

How to Clean Your Devices, Part 2

Yesterday, we covered how to clean a desktop computer.  Today, we will look at how to clean our mobile devices.

Laptop - Obviously, you will want to unplug the laptop and remove the battery before any cleaning.  To clean the monitor, use the same procedure for cleaning a desktop monitor.  (Monitor wipes or soap and water.)

To clean underneath a laptop's keyboard, compressed air is your best option.  If you are comfortable removing the keyboard, you may want to remove it for easier cleaning.  Next, use isopropyl alcohol to clean the keys.  (You can use a soap and water mixture, but be sure to squeeze any excess water off the towel before wiping and give your computer plenty of time to dry before starting it.)

Space has to be sacrificed in order to create a portable computer, so the ability to thoroughly clean a laptop is limited unless you are comfortable completely disassembling your computer.  Your only remaining option is to try and remove dust from any place you can.  Use compressed air to clean the vents.  Remove any panels on the bottom and blow dust out of those areas.  If you removed the keyboard earlier, blow dust out before putting it back in place.

Phone/Tablet - Smartphones and tablets are generally not made to be disassembled, so cleaning dust out of them will be difficult.  Fortunately, these devices do not attract as much dust since they have limited ventilation.  If there are any vents, try using compressed air inside of them.  I also found that my mother's smartphone had trouble charging due to dirt and dust inside the charging port.  A couple shots of compressed air in the charging port solved the problem.

If your phone has a battery that can be easily removed, take the cover off and remove it.  Then use compressed air to clean any exposed areas.  You can also clean these areas with a cotton swab using a soap and water mixture.  Use a damp microfiber cloth to clean your screen.  If the screen is cracked, use a dry cloth to prevent moisture from entering your device.  When cleaning the screen, do not use a circular motion, as this can scratch the screen.

How to Clean Your Devices, Part 1

One of the most common questions I am asked is how to clean a particular device.  Most people know that they should not use a wet rag with soap, but they are unsure exactly what is appropriate.

Obviously, you will want to shut down your computer and remove the battery (if possible) prior to cleaning it.

Desktop Computer Case (Exterior) – Cleaning a desktop case is the one instance where it is appropriate to use soap and water.  Use a moist (not wet) rag with a light amount of soap, and stay away or use caution around any ports or vents.

Desktop Computer Case (Interior) – Once the side panel of the case has been removed, use of water must stop!  However, isopropyl alcohol is a great substitute for water, and it is safe to use around most computer components because it dries quickly and will not conduct electricity.  Some people say that you can even take out most components and dip them in an alcohol bath, but I do not recommend this unless you are working with a computer that you can spare.

For a quick clean, I recommend taking the computer outside and using compressed air to blow the dust out of the case.  This is a cheap and quick way to get most of the dust out.  A can of compressed air usually costs between three and five dollars, and you can find them at any electronics store or Walmart/Meijer.  Use short bursts of air; don’t just push the trigger and keep spraying!  If you want to give specific components a more thorough cleaning, read on:

Case Fans – Case fans are fans that are actually attached to the metal case itself.  If compressed air isn’t getting the job done, use a Q-tip with isopropyl alcohol.  You may want to remove the fan to be able to get both sides of it, but make sure that you make note of the arrows that point the direction of airflow and replace the fan in the same direction.

CPU/GPU Fans and Heat Sinks – Your processor is covered by a large series of metal fins, called a heat sink.  In most cases, a fan then sits on top of the heat sink.  If you have a separate graphics card, this it may have a heat sink and fan.  Again, compressed air is best, but for a more thorough clean, use isopropyl alcohol.  Be careful if you choose to remove the heat sink from the processor.  If you do remove it, be sure to clean the heat sink surface and the top of the processor with isopropyl alcohol, and then reapply thermal compound (available at most electronics stores) once it is dry.

Motherboard and Expansion Cards – If compressed air is not cleaning your motherboard or expansion card, then your best option will again be a Q-tip with isopropyl alcohol.  Be sure to leave enough time for the alcohol to dry before restarting your computer.

Hard Drives / Optical Drives – Due to the sensitive nature of these components, do not use ANY liquid on a hard drive or optical drive.  If compressed air is not cleaning an area, try using a dry rag.  Otherwise, the dirt or dust is something you will have to live with.

Power Supply – The power supply is the unit that receives the cord from the wall and then distributes power through a variety of wires.  Like your hard drive, do not use any liquid with the power supply.  Use compressed air and a dry cloth.

Desktop Keyboard – Use compressed air to blow out any dust or debris under the keyboard.  (Flip the keyboard over or remove the keys to allow it to escape easily.)  If you remove the keys, you can use isopropyl alcohol on the contacts underneath.

Mouse – For an optical mouse (with a laser), use a Q-tip with isopropyl alcohol in the area of the LED.  For a ball mouse, remove the ball and wipe with alcohol.  If the buttons on the mouse come off, then remove them and clean underneath with alcohol.

Monitor - The easiest way to clean a monitor is to buy a package of monitor wipes and keep them on hand.  Carefully wipe the screen without pressing too hard (this can damage the pixels).  If you want to do it by yourself, you can use water with a light amount of soap, but be careful not to let the water run into the bottom and sides of the screen.

Quickly Undo and Redo Changes

Have you ever been working in a document or spreadsheet and deleted something you actually wanted to keep?  Don't worry!  There's no need to remember what you wrote in order to recreate it.

Most programs (including all Office programs) make use of an undo and redo feature.  The undo feature does exactly what it sounds like it does:  it allows you to undo recent changes.  In most cases, it will not undo changes letter-by-letter, but it will undo typing blocks of text in small chunks.

If you are undoing changes and accidentally went too far, it's time to make use of the redo feature.  This will undo your undo-s.  It is also useful if you want to compare the original text with your recent edits.  The redo feature will only work until you make another edit.  Once you make a change, the ability to revert what you just did with the undo button disappears.

In Office 2007 and later, the Undo and Redo buttons are located at the top of the screen, near the logo for the program you are using.  In other software, you will usually find them somewhere on the toolbar.  The Undo button is usually an arrow pointing to the left, and the Redo button is usually a similar arrow pointing to the right.  These features can also be accessed from the Edit menu.

However, these features have a standard keyboard shortcut.  Ctrl + Z will undo your changes, and Ctrl + Y will redo them.  These keyboard shortcuts work in a variety of programs, including many that do not have undo and redo buttons built in.  For example, I was just able to undo a change to this text as I typed it inside a browser window.

What Do CC and BCC Mean?

It seems obvious:  when you are sending an email to multiple people, you list them on the "To" line.  While this is the most common way to email multiple people, you actually have two other options: CC and BCC.

CC stands for "Carbon Copy".  (I have also heard it referred to as "Courtesy Copy" or "Copy Circulated" .)  Carbon Copy goes back to the days of typewriters, when a typist would insert a carbon sheet in between two pieces of paper to create a duplicate letter that could be saved or sent to a second person.  Now, it is usually reserved to list people who are being informed of the email exchange but do not need to reply or get involved in the conversation.  It can also be used when you reach the limit on the number of names in the "To" list.

BCC stands for "Blind Carbon Copy" (or "Blind Courtesy Copy" and "Blind Copy Circulated").  Addresses on the BCC line cannot be seen by recipients on the To or CC line.  The BCC line is commonly used to keep email addresses on a list private when a user is not using mailing list software.

Web-based email software used to include a "To" line, a "CC" line, and a "BCC" line in the Compose window.  However, most software now only includes the To line and includes links to add a CC or BCC line.  Yahoo's email even requires you to add a CC before you have a BCC option.  If you don't see these options by default, look for a link to add them.

The Biggest Threat to your Online Security

It's scary being online these days.  We're afraid to swipe a credit or debit card out of fear it might be compromised, and we're also afraid that our password and photos might be stolen and shown to the world.  There are many threats to our online security:  hackers from Russia and China, poor security practices by companies we purchase from, and card skimmers installed on an ATM or a gas pump, to name a few.  Plus, this does not even touch the low-tech methods that have been around for years, such as a waiter or waitress copying down your card information while they are processing your payment.

However, the biggest threat to our online security does not come from other people, other companies, or even other nations.  This threat has unlimited and complete access to every part of each device you own.  It is present on your network at all times of the day or night.  It knows all your secret passwords, security questions and answers, and PIN numbers.  The biggest threat to your online security is you!

Most security breaches on your personal computers and other devices will occur with your permission.  You will choose to install the game or program that secretly comes with a keylogger to steal your personal information.  You will click on the link in an email to "update your information" and hand over your online banking password to criminals.  You will fail to completely secure your computer or router and leave a way for someone to access your network.  You will choose to visit a shady website that will download malicious code to your computer.

Do not mistake this warning for criticism.  I have come close to falling for some of these scams, myself.  If the "computer guy" can be tricked into clicking on a link, I know that my readers and customers will be even more likely to click that link.  I broach this subject not to criticize anyone who has ever fallen for these scams, but to make you aware of three important points regarding online security.

First, attacking humans online is the most successful form of attack.  We hear about the millions of credit cards hacked from Target or Home Depot, but we do not hear about the people who are tricked into giving up their banking passwords or wiring money to some foreign entity.  There's a reason why you still get the "Nigerian prince" scam emails:  even after all these years, they still work!

Second, online attacks are growing because the cost of data is so cheap.  I remember when hard drive sizes were measured in megabytes.  Now, they are usually measured in gigabytes (over one thousand megabytes) but soon, we will be measuring them exclusively in terabytes (over one million megabytes).  It takes very little time and money to craft a nice looking email, link that email to your own database, and then send it to thousands of people at a time.  If one person hands over their credit card number, you can probably just about cover your costs.  If two (or more) people do it, you will be making big money.

Finally, we must take responsibility for our own security.  Antivirus software used to only protect against threats it could find in its database; now, these programs are becoming better at protecting us against other threats.  However, no amount of security software or hardware will ever keep us 100% safe.  I am thankful for the many times my antivirus software has kicked in and protected me, but I never assume that it will keep me safe from the next attack.  Each time I am notified that it is protecting me, I review my personal habits to see what clues I should have caught, and I try to be more vigilant the next time.

Keep Your Child Safe Online

The internet can be a wonderful tool for your children, but it can also allow them access to many things you don't want them to see.  In yesterday's tip, I discussed how you can set up a separate account for your kids that will keep them from installing software or making major changes without your approval.  (If you want to read that tip, you can read it here.)  Once you've set up that account, you can also use built-in tools to monitor and control what your kids are doing online.

In my tip yesterday, I mentioned that you could create a single account for all of your kids.  However, some of these tools work best if you create a separate account for each child.

Once you have your user account/accounts configured, go to the Control Panel (Start -> Control Panel in Windows Vista/7 or Charms -> Settings -> Control Panel in Windows 8), look for "User Accounts and Family Safety", and select the option for "Set up Parental Controls" (Windows Vista/7) or "Set up Family Safety" (Windows 8).  Then, select the first account you want to configure for parental controls.

On/Off - The first option is to turn these controls on or off.  Since you are reading this tip, I will assume you want to select "On, enforce current settings".  If you accidentally turn this on for an adult's account, you can come back here to turn it off again.

Activity Reporting (Vista/8) - If you want Windows to log the internet activity on this account, select "On".  You will then be able to come back to this page and click on "View activity log" on the right-hand side to view the logs.

Activity Reporting (Windows 7) - In Windows 7, Microsoft moved the activity log and content filtering to a separate utility.  To enable this, you will need to go here to download and install Windows Essentials.  You can either choose to install all programs, or you can choose to only install the Family Safety program.  Once installed, you can type "Windows Live Family Safety" into the search box to set up monitoring on specific accounts.  The activity reports will be accessible through the Family Safety website.

Web Filtering (Vista/7/8) - The Web Filtering tool allows you to set filters on the content your kids can see.  You can also allow or block specific websites to override the filter settings.  This is included in the Control Panel utility on Vista/8, and it is included with the Windows Live Family Settings program in Windows 7.

Time Limits (Vista/7/8) - You can limit the amount of time each account can be logged in.  This is very useful if you have several kids and need to make sure they are sharing one computer.  You can also set curfew times so your kids are not able to sneak on the computer while you are sleeping.

Games (Vista/7/8) - This allows you to control the games (and Windows Store apps in Windows 8) that your kids can use.  You can filter by rating, and you can also allow or block specific games.

Programs/Desktop Apps (Vista/7/8) - Like the Games section, you can limit the programs that your kids are allowed to use.  Although this feature may only have limited uses, it can be very helpful for a computer that is used for both work and home purposes.  If you have programs that you installed for work, you can block access so your kids are unable to get into them.

Keep Your Computer Safe From Your Kids

A customer recently brought in a computer that was running slow and stated that her kids had installed all kinds of games and other programs on it.  This week, she told me that the computer is working much better, and she also stated that she was only letting her kids use it when they were supervised.  I told her that it was possible to create a separate user account for her kids that would stop them from installing any programs without her permission.  When I told her that I would write out instructions, I thought that this would make a great subject for a tip.

Windows comes with the ability to create several different types of accounts.  By default, most accounts become Administrator accounts.  Administrator accounts have full permission to use the resources of the computer (unless the user is blocked by other means).  Standard User accounts have permission to use most of the resources on the computer, but not to change them.  This means that standard users cannot install programs, delete system files, or change settings without entering an administrative password.  There are a few other types of users, but these are the two types you will need to know.

My suggestion was to create a password-protected administrator account for the adults and a second standard user account (which may or may not have a password) for the kids.  Here is how you would set this up:

Windows Vista/7:

1) Log in with an administrator account.  If you are not sure if an account is an administrator account, we will check that in a minute.

2) Go to the Start Menu and choose Control Panel.

3) Choose "Add or Remove User Accounts" under "User Accounts and Family Safety".

4) Check the account you logged in under and see if it says "Administrator" underneath.  If it does, continue.  If not, log out and log back in under an account that does say Administrator.

5) If the account is already has a password, you may skip this step.  If your account does not have a password, select the administrator account, and then choose "Create a password" in the next window.  Do NOT skip this step!  If you do not have a password on the administrator account, anyone using the standard user account will be able to perform the tasks of an administrator with one click.

6) Click the back arrow in the top-left corner to go back to the original screen.  Then, select "Create a new account".

7) Type in an account name (such as "Kids") and be sure to select "Standard user".  Then, click "Create account".

Windows 8/8.1:

1) Log in with an administrator account.  If you are not sure if an account is an administrator account, we will check that in a minute.

2) Go to the charms bar and select Settings -> Control Panel.

3) Click on "Change Account Type"

4) Check the account you logged in under and see if it says "Administrator" underneath.  If it does, continue.  If not, log out and log back in under an account that does say Administrator.

5) If the account is already has a password, you may skip this step.  If your account does not have a password, select the administrator account, and then choose "Create a password" in the next window.  Do NOT skip this step!  If you do not have a password on the administrator account, anyone using the standard user account will be able to perform the tasks of an administrator with one click.

6) Click the back arrow in the top-left corner to go back to the original screen.  Then, select "Add a new user in PC settings".  In the new window, select "Add a new user".

7) Follow the prompts to create either an online Microsoft account (by linking it to an email address) or a local account (by selecting "Sign in without a Microsoft account").  By default, the account will be a Standard User account unless you change it to administrator.

Now, when your kids log in with the standard user account, they will be asked to enter an administrator password if they attempt to install a program or change a setting.  If they want to install a legitimate program, they will only need to get you to enter the password for your administrator account.

Creating a separate account for your kids also gives you the opportunity to enable parental controls on the account.  I will address this in tomorrow's tip!

Fix a Stuck Printer

Sometimes your printer just won't print.  It could be that it is shut off or not connected to the computer.  However, sometimes a document gets stuck while waiting to print.

To manage your print jobs, Windows uses what is called the print spooler, or print queue.  This allows you to send multiple documents to the printer simultaneously.  Without a print queue, you would only be able to send a document to the printer if it was not doing anything.  The print spooler service saves your document in the queue until the printer is ready to print it.

But sometimes, a file gets stuck in the queue waiting to print.  Many times, this happens when you try to cancel a print job after you have sent it, but it can happen at other times.  When this happens, the printer won't print anything until the queue is cleared.

Fortunately, it is fairly easy to clear the print queue.  (Note:  This will not only delete the stuck document, but also any other documents you have waiting to print.)  Even better, one website has assembled a free download that will do it for you!

The free Print Queue Cleaner can clear those stuck print jobs.  There are two versions available just above the Donate button.  The first is a simple utility that you can download and run for one-time use.  The second contains an installer that will allow you to install it on your computer.  Since these problems aren't extremely common, I would recommend that you just save the link and download it as needed.

My Laptop's ___ Doesn't Work!

This post originally appeared here on July 7, 2014.

Today's tip actually comes as a result of two recent service experiences I had.  I will briefly describe both experiences:

1)  I worked on a customer's computer and returned it to him.  He called me later that day and informed me of two problems he was still having, including not having internet.  I was able to quickly diagnose the internet problem using today's tip.

2) I was called to a customer's house to work on a desktop.  While there, his wife told me her laptop's touchpad had suddenly stopped working, and she asked me to look at it.  Once again, I quickly solved the problem using today's tip.

The simple answer to both of these problems:  the wireless card and touchpad had been turned off accidentally.  (Fortunately, in both cases, I was already doing other work, so I did not have to charge either of them solely for the service call.)  Now, for the more complicated answer:

Computer manufacturers have developed a lot of switches and key combinations into their laptops that allow you to turn functions of your laptop on and off.  For example, if you are travelling a long distance and want to write some letters or crunch some numbers on a spreadsheet, you will not need to use your wireless connection.  In this case, you may want to conserve battery life by turning off power to your wireless card.  (The reason why this will help save your battery will be the subject of tomorrow's tip.)

The touchpad could be turned off because you prefer using a wireless mouse, and you have a tendency to bump the touchpad and make your pointer go crazy.  (I do this all the time!)  Other key combinations available on my laptop include shutting off the screen (if connected to an external projector or monitor), adjusting the screen's brightness, and turning the sound up and down.  Depending on your model, you may have other options.

Each of these buttons or key combinations have a legitimate purpose, but they can really mess you up if you don't realize you shut it off.  In the case of the "bad" touchpad, the person was attempting to set up a connection to an external projector at work and unknowingly hit the key for the touchpad instead because they were located right next to each other.

So, before you pay for a technician to look at your laptop because something suddenly stopped working, it would be well worth your time to see if you accidentally shut off that feature.  You may be able to find a symbol somewhere on the keyboard or near a switch that roughly represents the item that is shut off.  (In the case of a key combination, it will usually be the Fn key combined with one of the F1-F12 keys.)  If you are unsure, you can check your computer's documentation (either the print version that came with it or the copies posted online).  It is well worth a few minutes if it saves you some money.

Three Steps to Secure Your Home Network

This post originally appeared here on July 29, 2014.

Wireless networks are wonderful.  We can take our laptop, tablet, or phone and sit anywhere in the house while we surf the web.  However, having wireless access in your home also means that someone sitting in their car across the street can use your internet unless you take steps to block that person out.  And while you might just think that you are being generous by allowing others to use your bandwidth, any activities (including illegal ones) performed by a person on the network will be connected back to you.  You may be able to clear yourself eventually, but you will end up with many hassles and legal bills before that happens.

Fortunately, it is simple to secure your home's wireless network to block out intruders.

1) Add a password - This is the most basic security step you can take.  When someone tries to connect to your network, they will be forced to enter the password you set up.

To set up your password, you will need to access your router's control panel.  To access this panel, you will need to go to a web browser window and enter your router's network address.  (The network address will be listed in your router's documentation, or you can look up the address for your router online.  It will begin with 192.168.)  Next, you will need to enter the user name and password.  These have a default setting, so if you have not changed them, look up the defaults in the documentation or online, as well.  Then, you will need to navigate to where you can change the password.  The exact procedure will differ based on your router, but for my router, I click on "Wireless" and then "Security".  For the best security, you will want to use WPA2 security unless you have a device that cannot connect with WPA2.  On my router, this is changed under "Authentication Type".  Underneath that option is a place for the "Passphrase".  This is obviously where you will enter the password that you want.

While this step will keep most people off your network, a determined person will still be able to get around your security if all you do is add a password.  To stop these people, you need to do more:

2) Change your SSID - The SSID is a name that identifies your wireless network.  By default, it will usually contain the brand name of the router.  Remember how we could access the control panel earlier by looking up the router's address online?  If your router's brand is listed in your network name, anyone on your network could look up that address and access your control panel.  Even if the model number is not in the description, most manufacturers use the same one or two addresses for all their routers.  Once on your network, it would not take long to be inside your control panel.

To change your SSID, you will once again go to the control panel and search for an "SSID" option to change.  On my router, I can access that by simply clicking on "Wireless".  Once there, think of a creative name for your network.  You can use your last name, your address, or even change it to "FBI Surveillance Van".  (Yes, I know of at least two people who have done that!)  This is not a password, so there is no need to be concerned about coming up with a complicated name.  The critical factor is that your router's brand name is gone!

If you want to be extra conscious about security, you can disable SSID broadcasting.  This will cause your network to appear as something like "Unidentified Network" or "Unnamed Network".  Then, in order to connect, you will have to enter the network name along with the password you set earlier.  While this provides a little extra security, it also adds the inconvenience of having to remember and enter the network name along with the password.

3) Change your Access Password - Remember how we had to enter a user name and password to access the router control panel.  Because so many routers use the same default address, it would not take long to guess the address of most routers.  Once the person has done this, they will almost always have access to the model number of your router (it is usually displayed on the login page).  If your user name and password to access the control panel is still the default, they can look it up just as easily as you can!  Once inside your control panel, they can make all kinds of changes to your network, including blocking you from accessing your own router.

To stop this, change your router's access password.  (Some may also allow you to change the user name, but others may not.)  This may take a little time to find in your control panel, but it is worth it.  You can also attempt to look up directions in your documentation or online.  Make sure you write this password down!  You will most likely use it infrequently, so you want to have it written down where you can find it when you need it.

See Your Public Facebook Profile

This post originally appeared here on August 27, 2014.

Sometimes it feels like we are in a constant battle with the large internet companies over the privacy of our data.  Just when we think we have our privacy settings the way we want them, they turn around and make more changes.  Do you really know what is public or private on social media?  For example, a few months ago, I wanted to make one status update public, and for the next month, everything I posted on Facebook was made public.  Fortunately, I did eventually realize the issue and changed the privacy settings.

On Facebook, there is one very useful feature that you can use to see what the public can see.  Log into Facebook and go to your profile page (not the news feed).  Then, in the bottom right corner of your cover photo, you should see a "..." box next to the "View Activity Log" button.  Select "View As" on the menu, and your page will show you what everyone can see when they look at your Facebook profile.

You are even able to see what a specific friend is able to see.  Perhaps you made some status updates only visible to certain friends.  Choose a friend who is (or is not) on the list, and make sure your privacy settings worked properly.

Secure Your Accounts with Two-Step Authentication

This post originally appeared here on August 28, 2014.

It seems that hardly a day goes by without word of another high-profile company being hit with a data breach.  If someone gains access to your password, they can do anything that you can do inside your account.  Anything you can see or do when you log in, they can see or do from their own computer.

However, there is a way that you can keep people from accessing your account, even if they have your current password.  It is called two-step or two-factor authentication.  This requires two forms of identification before access to your account is granted.  My first introduction to two-factor authentication happened over a decade ago.  My dad would connect to the network at work with not only a password, but also a random code generated by a token he carried on his keychain.  Anyone who got his password would also have to steal his token in order to access the network under his name.

Of course, a token for your Gmail or Yahoo email account would be impractical.  It becomes even more impractical when you consider that you would also need one for your Facebook account, your Walmart account, etc.  Imagine having a token for each online account you set up:  you would never be able to find the one you wanted when you need it.

However, many modern accounts can activate some form of two-factor authentication.  For example, when I log into my online banking account from a computer, I am required to have an access code emailed or texted to my phone.  After I successfully enter a code, a cookie is placed on the computer that notifies the site that this computer is approved, and I no longer have to enter it until I clear the cookies or log in on a different computer.

Unfortunately, two-factor authentication is rarely required or even presented as an option when signing up for an account.  As mentioned earlier, my bank requires it when you log in for the first time on a particular computer, but I do not recall ever being offered two-factor authentication for my Gmail or Yahoo emails, even though Gmail, Yahoo, and Microsoft emails (Hotmail/Live.com) all have this as an option.  Facebook, Twitter, PayPal, and Amazon are among other companies that also offer two-factor authentication.

If you are unsure if a site offers two-factor authentication, try searching the site's help pages or contacting customer support.  If it is offered, I recommend that you enable it wherever you can.  It is certainly not foolproof, but it is an additional step to help keep unwanted guests out of your accounts.

Speed Up Your Wi-Fi

This post originally appeared here on September 12, 2014.

Everyone wants the fastest internet speed possible at a price we can afford.  However, if your Wi-Fi is slow, the problem may not be your ISP.  There are many things that you can do to improve your Wi-Fi speeds that don't include contacting your ISP to increase your speed (which will also increase your price, of course!)  Here are four free things you can do that might improve your Wi-Fi speeds:

1) Move the Router - Many people do not know that the maximum speed decreases as you move away from the router.  To make sure you have the best speeds, move the router as close as possible to where people will be using Wi-Fi.  If you want coverage throughout your house, try to move it somewhere in the center.  If most of the Wi-Fi access is done on one side, you might want to move it closer to that end of the house.

Hiding the router away in one corner gives some of your best coverage to your yard and even to the neighbor's house.  Obviously, you will not want an unsightly mess of cables right in the middle of your living room, but moving your router closer may improve your speed.

If you must put the router in a corner or at one end of your house, you can use a curved sheet of aluminum foil or an aluminium can behind the router to reflect the signal back into your house.

2) Change the Channel - Your router can be programmed to work on eleven different channels.  If most of your neighbors are using one particular channel, that channel can slow from all the transmissions.  Access your router's control panel (for exact instructions, check the printed or online documentation for your router) and try changing the channel.  The best channels to use will be 1, 6, and 11.

A word of warning:  I had one customer whose printer required channel 1 for some reason, but his router was programmed to select the clearest channel.  If you suddenly find that a device won't connect after changing the channel, you may be stuck with the channel you are on.

3) Update Firmware - All devices contain small chips with software to operate the device.  This software is called firmware.  Manufacturers will sometimes release firmware updates for your device to protect against security holes, correct errors, and add new features.  Unfortunately, unlike Windows, your devices are rarely programmed to check for firmware updates.

Both your router and your device's Wi-Fi card have firmware that might benefit from an upgrade.  To check for new firmware, go to the manufacturer's website.

4) Check for Thieves - Earlier this week, I wrote a tip about how to check for people that might be using your Wi-Fi network.  If you did not get this tip, you can check it out here.

However, even authorized devices may be using your bandwidth without your knowledge.  Right now, WiFi Guard lists five devices connected to my router, even though I am only using my computer (and at the time I am writing this, I am the only one awake).  Shutting off Wi-Fi on your phone, tablet, or streaming device might free up more bandwidth for your computer.

But I Have An Antivirus!

This post originally appeared here on August 8, 2014.

Among comments I hear most often when I am on a service call and I discover a virus is something like, "But I have an antivirus" or "How did that get past my McAfee/Norton/AVG/etc?"  Today, I want to clear up exactly what you should expect your antivirus program to be able to do.

An antivirus program is to your computer what the immune system is to your body.  The fact that you have a working immune system does not mean you will never get sick.  Even those who take vitamins and supplements to boost their immune system will still find their bodies succumbing to the occasional illness.  When a virus enters your body, your immune system only knows to eliminate it if you have had it before and have built a resistance to that virus.  If you have never encountered that particular strain of a virus, it may take some time before your body realizes that it needs to go into action.

Similarly, antivirus software has become very good at eliminating the threats that it knows about!  When it scans the websites you visit and the files you download or open, it is comparing them to a list of known threats.  If I were to write a virus and send it out with this email (don't worry, I won't!), it is unlikely that any antivirus would catch it because the software doesn't know it exists.  In order to keep up with the latest threats, companies that produce antivirus software are constantly sending out new files with information about the latest threats.  These files, usually referred to as definitions, are almost always downloaded automatically to your computer when you are online.

Software is becoming better at recognizing certain behavioral traits of viruses so that they can block some threats before they are included in the definitions.  While they are sometimes successful, it can be difficult to distinguish between legitimate programs and viruses.  For example, a cloud backup program (which I discussed in an earlier tip) would be identical in function to a virus that copies everything off of your hard drive and sends it to a server in Tajikistan.  The only difference would be the destination of the data.  An overzealous setting might flag your legitimate cloud backup software as a virus, while looser settings might allow both to operate uninhibited.

Joxean Koret, a researcher with Singapore-based security firm COSENIC, recently gave a presentation where he discussed flaws found in 14 of 17 antivirus products his firm tested.  At the end of his presentation, he provided a recommendation for consumers:  "Do not blindly trust your antivirus product."

The key word is blindly.  Use your antivirus, but also practice good online habits, such as:

• Keep your operating system and other software up-to-date.
• Don't click on links in emails or on social media.
• Don't conduct sensitive business (such as online banking or shopping) on public Wi-Fi.
• Use strong passwords and change them regularly.
• Keep clear of sketchy websites.
• Only download files from reputable sources.

What We Know About the New Windows

Yesterday, Microsoft released the successor to its highly-criticized Windows 8.  While the program was officially only known as Threshold, most people had resorted to calling it the likeliest of titles:  Windows 9.  However, Microsoft decided to surprise us all by instead calling it Windows 10.  Here are some of the things we can expect when Windows 10 is released next summer:

The Start Menu - One of the biggest complaints about Windows 8 was the lack of a start menu.  The start menu returns in Windows 10.  The left side of the start menu will contain the traditional Windows 7 app list, and the right side will contain a live tile section similar to the Windows 8 start screen.  The start menu also brings back the search bar, and internet search results will show up alongside file and application results.

Metro/Desktop Interface - One of the big problems with Windows 8 was the difference in the way that the touch-optimized Metro app interface worked compared to the traditional desktop interface.  Microsoft has allowed its Metro apps to run in standard desktop windows that can be resized and moved, and the interface will adjust based on the device.

Working with Windows - A new button on the desktop allows you to quickly view and switch between all your open apps.  You are also able to snap up to four windows on your screen, and Windows will suggest apps to fill open space.  Finally, you will have the option to create multiple desktops, allowing you to have one for work and one for home, or any other way you decide to split them.

Cortana - Microsoft's answer to Siri is expected to make its way into the desktop version of Windows 10.  While Cortana was not demonstrated at yesterday's event and will not appear in the preview released today, we should expect Cortana to be in the final release next year.

User Feedback - Today, Microsoft will release the first public build of Windows 10 through its Windows Insider program.  It appears Microsoft is working to keep in touch with its users during the development process in order to implement feedback into the final product.

Should you go download the Windows 10 preview today?  Only if you plan to install it on an unused computer or a virtual machine.  (If you don't know how to do either of these, then it probably isn't for you.)  This is NOT a working version of Windows; it is a version that will have some bugs and security holes.  It is designed primarily for testing and application development, not for use as your primary operating system.