I had a subscriber contact me last week to ask me about Office 365. Specifically, he wanted to know which was the better deal and if there were any differences between Office 365 and Office 2013. After giving him a small overview, I told him I would write a tip about it this week.
Last year, Microsoft announced two new versions of Office. Customers could purchase the traditional Office 2013 or they could purchase a new subscription-based Office 365.
Office 365 costs $9.99 per month or $99.99 per year. It includes all the programs included in the Office 2013 Professional version, which sells at Amazon for $267.99. If you need fewer programs, you can purchase the Home and Business or Home and Student editions, costing $219.00 and $139.00, respectively. If we have to assume that Office will be released on Microsoft's usual 3-4 year schedule, then purchasing Office 2013 once seems to be the better deal.
However, Office 365 gives you the ability to install Office on up to five computers and up to five additional Windows tables or iPads. These installations can also be shared with up to four other members of your household. If you have three laptops, a desktop, and two tablets in your household, your monthly or annual subscription would allow you to install Office on all six devices. Plus, each user gets up to 1 TB of cloud storage included. You also get the latest features automatically (there is no additional upgrade cost) and you can get free technical support from Microsoft.
If you have multiple devices and usually upgrade to the latest edition as soon as it is available, then Office 365 might be a great deal for you. If you like to stick with the version you have, even after later versions are available, then Office 2013 will probably be the best deal for you, especially if you only have one device.
Friday, August 29, 2014
Thursday, August 28, 2014
Secure Your Accounts with Two-Step Authentication
It seems that hardly a day goes by without word of another high-profile company being hit with a data breach. If someone gains access to your password, they can do anything that you can do inside your account. Anything you can see or do when you log in, they can see or do from their own computer.
However, there is a way that you can keep people from accessing your account, even if they have your current password. It is called two-step or two-factor authentication. This requires two forms of identification before access to your account is granted. My first introduction to two-factor authentication happened over a decade ago. My dad would connect to the network at work with not only a password, but also a random code generated by a token he carried on his keychain. Anyone who got his password would also have to steal his token in order to access the network under his name.
Of course, a token for your Gmail or Yahoo email account would be impractical. It becomes even more impractical when you consider that you would also need one for your Facebook account, your Walmart account, etc. Imagine having a token for each online account you set up: you would never be able to find the one you wanted when you need it.
However, many modern accounts can activate some form of two-factor authentication. For example, when I log into my online banking account from a computer, I am required to have an access code emailed or texted to my phone. After I successfully enter a code, a cookie is placed on the computer that notifies the site that this computer is approved, and I no longer have to enter it until I clear the cookies or log in on a different computer.
Unfortunately, two-factor authentication is rarely required or even presented as an option when signing up for an account. As mentioned earlier, my bank requires it when you log in for the first time on a particular computer, but I do not recall ever being offered two-factor authentication for my Gmail or Yahoo emails, even though Gmail, Yahoo, and Microsoft emails (Hotmail/Live.com) all have this as an option. Facebook, Twitter, PayPal, and Amazon are among other companies that also offer two-factor authentication.
If you are unsure if a site offers two-factor authentication, try searching the site's help pages or contacting customer support. If it is offered, I recommend that you enable it wherever you can. It is certainly not foolproof, but it is an additional step to help keep unwanted guests out of your accounts.
However, there is a way that you can keep people from accessing your account, even if they have your current password. It is called two-step or two-factor authentication. This requires two forms of identification before access to your account is granted. My first introduction to two-factor authentication happened over a decade ago. My dad would connect to the network at work with not only a password, but also a random code generated by a token he carried on his keychain. Anyone who got his password would also have to steal his token in order to access the network under his name.
Of course, a token for your Gmail or Yahoo email account would be impractical. It becomes even more impractical when you consider that you would also need one for your Facebook account, your Walmart account, etc. Imagine having a token for each online account you set up: you would never be able to find the one you wanted when you need it.
However, many modern accounts can activate some form of two-factor authentication. For example, when I log into my online banking account from a computer, I am required to have an access code emailed or texted to my phone. After I successfully enter a code, a cookie is placed on the computer that notifies the site that this computer is approved, and I no longer have to enter it until I clear the cookies or log in on a different computer.
Unfortunately, two-factor authentication is rarely required or even presented as an option when signing up for an account. As mentioned earlier, my bank requires it when you log in for the first time on a particular computer, but I do not recall ever being offered two-factor authentication for my Gmail or Yahoo emails, even though Gmail, Yahoo, and Microsoft emails (Hotmail/Live.com) all have this as an option. Facebook, Twitter, PayPal, and Amazon are among other companies that also offer two-factor authentication.
If you are unsure if a site offers two-factor authentication, try searching the site's help pages or contacting customer support. If it is offered, I recommend that you enable it wherever you can. It is certainly not foolproof, but it is an additional step to help keep unwanted guests out of your accounts.
Security Alert: Chase Among Up To Five Banks Hacked
JP Morgan Chase has admitted that it was a subject of a hack earlier this month. Very few details have been released, but the FBI is investigating this incident, along with similar incidents that may have occurred at up to four other banks.
According to Chase, large amounts of sensitive data may have been stolen, including checking and savings account numbers.
At this point, changing your password, enabling two-step authentication (it is ironic that I wrote today's tip about two-step authentication last weekend and scheduled it for today), and watching your accounts carefully is your best option.
Finally, remember that scammers will be taking advantage of this situation to send out emails in an attempt to trick you into giving up your personal information. Never click a link in an email supposedly from your bank or type in personal information into a website unless you have specifically visited your bank's site.
According to Chase, large amounts of sensitive data may have been stolen, including checking and savings account numbers.
At this point, changing your password, enabling two-step authentication (it is ironic that I wrote today's tip about two-step authentication last weekend and scheduled it for today), and watching your accounts carefully is your best option.
Finally, remember that scammers will be taking advantage of this situation to send out emails in an attempt to trick you into giving up your personal information. Never click a link in an email supposedly from your bank or type in personal information into a website unless you have specifically visited your bank's site.
Wednesday, August 27, 2014
See Your Public Facebook Profile
Sometimes it feels like we are in a constant battle with the large internet companies over the privacy of our data. Just when we think we have our privacy settings the way we want them, they turn around and make more changes. Do you really know what is public or private on social media? For example, a few months ago, I wanted to make one status update public, and for the next month, everything I posted on Facebook was made public. Fortunately, I did eventually realize the issue and changed the privacy settings.
On Facebook, there is one very useful feature that you can use to see what the public can see. Log into Facebook and go to your profile page (not the news feed). Then, in the bottom right corner of your cover photo, you should see a "..." box next to the "View Activity Log" button. Select "View As" on the menu, and your page will show you what everyone can see when they look at your Facebook profile.
You are even able to see what a specific friend is able to see. Perhaps you made some status updates only visible to certain friends. Choose a friend who is (or is not) on the list, and make sure your privacy settings worked properly.
On Facebook, there is one very useful feature that you can use to see what the public can see. Log into Facebook and go to your profile page (not the news feed). Then, in the bottom right corner of your cover photo, you should see a "..." box next to the "View Activity Log" button. Select "View As" on the menu, and your page will show you what everyone can see when they look at your Facebook profile.
You are even able to see what a specific friend is able to see. Perhaps you made some status updates only visible to certain friends. Choose a friend who is (or is not) on the list, and make sure your privacy settings worked properly.
Tuesday, August 26, 2014
Recall Alert: HP Laptop Charger Recall
HP is recalling 6 million laptop chargers because of a fire risk. These chargers were shipped with computers sold between September 2010 and June 2012. There have currently been around 30 incidents of these chargers overheating. If your charger has an "LS-15" on the part of the cable that plugs into the brick, it may be affected. (Not all cords with LS-15 are affected, but all of the recalled cables have the LS-15 marking.)
If your charger has the LS-15 marking, you can go here to see if you qualify for a replacement.
If your charger has the LS-15 marking, you can go here to see if you qualify for a replacement.
What to Look For in a New Printer
After seven or eight years of service, my parents' printer died last week. Printers have become such an inexpensive piece of equipment that it is often easy to negotiate for a free printer when you purchase a new computer. However, with advertisers always pushing the next "big" feature as a must-have, selecting the right printer for your needs can be difficult. Since my parents are currently making a decision on a new printer, I thought it would be a good time to review some factors to select the right printer. Here are a few factors to consider:
1) Stand-alone printer vs. All-in-one - Many printers today serve as a printer, fax machine, scanner, and copier. If you need all of these devices, purchasing an all-in-one printer will be cheaper than purchasing each separately. However, you will lose some of the ability to choose the features you get in each device by purchasing them all together. For home use, I would recommend an all-in-one if you need copying and scanning ability, but for businesses, I would recommend purchasing each item separately unless you need to save money.
2) Laser vs. Inkjet - Laser printers have come down in price over the last few years, so they are now affordable for a home user. Laser printers offer a clearer print job, faster speed, and lower maintenance cost, but they remain more expensive than inkjet printers. Laser printers will also require more maintenance than an inkjet printer. For most home users, an inkjet printer will still be the best option.
3) Photo Printers - If you will be printing a lot of photos, you will want to invest in a printer designed for photo printing. These printers will cost much more, but will be optimized for printing large amounts of color onto many different types of paper at a high quality.
4) Color Ink - The ink cartridges that a printer uses are very important. Many manufacturers will combine the three colors (blue, cyan, and magenta) into one cartridge. While this makes replacing them easy, it also means you have to throw out two partially-used colors when the third runs out. I recommend sticking with a printer that has four separate color cartridges.
5) Ink Consumption - The cost of the printer itself will be extremely small in comparison to the cost of the ink you will use over its lifetime. Most manufacturers will list an average number of pages that can be printed with each cartridge. For example, when I look up my ink cartridge, the page states "Prints up to 190 pages." It would be a very good idea to do a cost-per-page comparison for each printer you are considering. The difference in cost may be enough to sway your decision.
6) Printing from the Couch - In today's multiple-device world, it is not uncommon to want to print something from your smartphone or tablet. If your printer only connects via USB cable, this will range from difficult and expensive to impossible. But many printers can now print via Wi-Fi. The exact setup may differ, but it is usually relatively easy to setup wireless printing. Once you have set up your printer, most devices can be programmed to print to it. For homes and businesses with smartphones, tablets, and laptops, wireless printing may be worth a little extra money.
1) Stand-alone printer vs. All-in-one - Many printers today serve as a printer, fax machine, scanner, and copier. If you need all of these devices, purchasing an all-in-one printer will be cheaper than purchasing each separately. However, you will lose some of the ability to choose the features you get in each device by purchasing them all together. For home use, I would recommend an all-in-one if you need copying and scanning ability, but for businesses, I would recommend purchasing each item separately unless you need to save money.
2) Laser vs. Inkjet - Laser printers have come down in price over the last few years, so they are now affordable for a home user. Laser printers offer a clearer print job, faster speed, and lower maintenance cost, but they remain more expensive than inkjet printers. Laser printers will also require more maintenance than an inkjet printer. For most home users, an inkjet printer will still be the best option.
3) Photo Printers - If you will be printing a lot of photos, you will want to invest in a printer designed for photo printing. These printers will cost much more, but will be optimized for printing large amounts of color onto many different types of paper at a high quality.
4) Color Ink - The ink cartridges that a printer uses are very important. Many manufacturers will combine the three colors (blue, cyan, and magenta) into one cartridge. While this makes replacing them easy, it also means you have to throw out two partially-used colors when the third runs out. I recommend sticking with a printer that has four separate color cartridges.
5) Ink Consumption - The cost of the printer itself will be extremely small in comparison to the cost of the ink you will use over its lifetime. Most manufacturers will list an average number of pages that can be printed with each cartridge. For example, when I look up my ink cartridge, the page states "Prints up to 190 pages." It would be a very good idea to do a cost-per-page comparison for each printer you are considering. The difference in cost may be enough to sway your decision.
6) Printing from the Couch - In today's multiple-device world, it is not uncommon to want to print something from your smartphone or tablet. If your printer only connects via USB cable, this will range from difficult and expensive to impossible. But many printers can now print via Wi-Fi. The exact setup may differ, but it is usually relatively easy to setup wireless printing. Once you have set up your printer, most devices can be programmed to print to it. For homes and businesses with smartphones, tablets, and laptops, wireless printing may be worth a little extra money.
Monday, August 25, 2014
What Is a Solid-State Drive?
Last week, I discovered that one of my hard drives had crashed. (Fortunately, I did not have any business or personal data stored on that drive, only programs.) Then, the next day, the solid-state drive that I had been wanting went on sale at Amazon. I took it as a sign that it was time to buy a solid-state drive. In honor of my drive's arrival yesterday, I thought it would be a good time to do a tip on solid-state drives.
Traditional hard drives have a large aluminum or ceramic platter on which the data is stored. A small motor spins the platters at anywhere from 5,000-15,000 times per second while an arm flies all over the drive reading the data your computer is requesting. This type of drive is cheap to manufacture, but if only one of those moving parts fail, the drive is gone.
Solid-state drives (SSDs) solve the problem of moving parts. They contain flash-based memory instead of the traditional moving parts. This memory is faster and more reliable than the memory contained in your USB flash drives. It is also faster, more reliable, and less shock-resistant than the traditional hard drives that have populated our computers for decades.
SSDs are more expensive than a comparable size traditional hard drive. SSDs of over 250 GB are rare, but available. By contrast, we are quickly getting to the point where traditional hard drives are measured in Terabytes (1000 GB). SSDs can reach 1 TB capacity, but they are not common because of the cost.
Which drive is right for you depends on how you plan to use it. If you like to store or edit videos and photos, you will probably want the cheaper traditional hard drives. Traditional hard drives are also the best choice for those looking for cheaper computers. Solid-state drives are good for those looking for speed over storage capacity, and the high durability makes them beneficial for those who use computers while on the road. Solid-state drives are also good places like recording studios where noise must be kept to a minimum.
About 10 years ago, manufacturers realized they could improve performance by combining the high storage capacity of traditional drives with the speed of a solid state drive. These drives use a small amount of SSD storage to serve as a cache for a larger traditional hard drive. While the drives do improve performance, the gains are minimal compared to the additional cost.
Finally, if you have multiple drive bays (more likely on a desktop than a laptop), you can do what I am doing: install multiple drives. In my case, I will have two 400 GB traditional drives along with my 250 GB solid-state drive. This will allow for ample storage space while still giving me the quick boot and program performance of a solid-state drive.
If you are looking for my recommendation, I recommend sticking with a traditional hard drive unless you are seeking one of the benefits of a solid-state drive. As technology develops and more people become interested in solid-state drives, the price is likely to come down to a more affordable range. Unless you have a reason to buy one, it makes little sense to invest in a solid-state drive now only to see the price come down in the next year.
Traditional hard drives have a large aluminum or ceramic platter on which the data is stored. A small motor spins the platters at anywhere from 5,000-15,000 times per second while an arm flies all over the drive reading the data your computer is requesting. This type of drive is cheap to manufacture, but if only one of those moving parts fail, the drive is gone.
Solid-state drives (SSDs) solve the problem of moving parts. They contain flash-based memory instead of the traditional moving parts. This memory is faster and more reliable than the memory contained in your USB flash drives. It is also faster, more reliable, and less shock-resistant than the traditional hard drives that have populated our computers for decades.
SSDs are more expensive than a comparable size traditional hard drive. SSDs of over 250 GB are rare, but available. By contrast, we are quickly getting to the point where traditional hard drives are measured in Terabytes (1000 GB). SSDs can reach 1 TB capacity, but they are not common because of the cost.
Which drive is right for you depends on how you plan to use it. If you like to store or edit videos and photos, you will probably want the cheaper traditional hard drives. Traditional hard drives are also the best choice for those looking for cheaper computers. Solid-state drives are good for those looking for speed over storage capacity, and the high durability makes them beneficial for those who use computers while on the road. Solid-state drives are also good places like recording studios where noise must be kept to a minimum.
About 10 years ago, manufacturers realized they could improve performance by combining the high storage capacity of traditional drives with the speed of a solid state drive. These drives use a small amount of SSD storage to serve as a cache for a larger traditional hard drive. While the drives do improve performance, the gains are minimal compared to the additional cost.
Finally, if you have multiple drive bays (more likely on a desktop than a laptop), you can do what I am doing: install multiple drives. In my case, I will have two 400 GB traditional drives along with my 250 GB solid-state drive. This will allow for ample storage space while still giving me the quick boot and program performance of a solid-state drive.
If you are looking for my recommendation, I recommend sticking with a traditional hard drive unless you are seeking one of the benefits of a solid-state drive. As technology develops and more people become interested in solid-state drives, the price is likely to come down to a more affordable range. Unless you have a reason to buy one, it makes little sense to invest in a solid-state drive now only to see the price come down in the next year.
Friday, August 22, 2014
Increase Your Chances of Getting Your Device Back
Let's face it: if you lose your smartphone or tablet, there's only a small chance that you will get it back. Unless the thief begins syncing selfies to your iCloud account (yes, that actually happened), it is going to be very difficult to actually locate your device once it has been stolen, no matter what tracking software you have installed.
However, what happens if your device is picked up by an honest person who wants to return it to you. If you have a lock screen with a passcode (I recommend you do!), the person cannot call "Home" or "Mom" to let someone know your phone has been found. Most phones will allow a person who finds your phone to contact your "In case of emergency" numbers, but that's just one extra step the person has to go through in order to get to you.
Fortunately, there's a simple solution! You can program your phone to display your contact information on the lock screen. That way, when that honest person finds your phone, they can contact you directly.
On Android, go to the Settings app and search for the "Owner Information" option. Looking online, it appears that it is usually under the "Security" option, but on my phone (Galaxy S3), it was under a separate category titled "Lock Screen". Once you find "Owner Information", enter your contact information and make sure the "Display on Lock Screen" option is checked. The information should now show up on your lock screen. However, I have seen reports that it can disappear for other messages if your phone is charging or is low on battery.
On iOS, there is no "Owner Information" option. However, all hope is not lost. You can edit your lock screen photo in any photo editor (even the Windows Paint program will work) and type your information somewhere on the screen. There are also apps you can download that will add the information automatically.
However, what happens if your device is picked up by an honest person who wants to return it to you. If you have a lock screen with a passcode (I recommend you do!), the person cannot call "Home" or "Mom" to let someone know your phone has been found. Most phones will allow a person who finds your phone to contact your "In case of emergency" numbers, but that's just one extra step the person has to go through in order to get to you.
Fortunately, there's a simple solution! You can program your phone to display your contact information on the lock screen. That way, when that honest person finds your phone, they can contact you directly.
On Android, go to the Settings app and search for the "Owner Information" option. Looking online, it appears that it is usually under the "Security" option, but on my phone (Galaxy S3), it was under a separate category titled "Lock Screen". Once you find "Owner Information", enter your contact information and make sure the "Display on Lock Screen" option is checked. The information should now show up on your lock screen. However, I have seen reports that it can disappear for other messages if your phone is charging or is low on battery.
On iOS, there is no "Owner Information" option. However, all hope is not lost. You can edit your lock screen photo in any photo editor (even the Windows Paint program will work) and type your information somewhere on the screen. There are also apps you can download that will add the information automatically.
Thursday, August 21, 2014
Plan for the Taxman Before You Kickstart
(Note: I am not an accountant, nor do I play one on TV! For complete tax advice, you will need to consult with a tax professional.)
Crowdfunding sites like Kickstarter are rapidly gaining popularity. For those unfamiliar with crowdfunding, it offers a platform for people to introduce new product ideas (along with many other fundraising goals), and then ask people to donate money in order to fund that idea. The idea is definitely free market: the popular ideas get funded; the others get left behind. Presently, you cannot sell ownership of your idea, but you can offer product discounts and other benefits to those who donate.
I was listening to a tech show last weekend, and one caller brought up a very important issue about crowdfunding: very little has come from the IRS regarding the tax consequences of money raised through these sites.
Working through the options for handling this money with the IRS, the host and the caller came to the conclusion that it would have to be treated as income. Funds raised are taxable as sales, which means that any expenses incurred in providing benefits would be deductible against the income. However, whatever is left would be treated as income.
Furthermore, the site may also be under a legal obligation to send you a 1099 for your income, which means that the IRS will be expecting you to report it. Because there will be a record that you received this income, it will be easy for the IRS to come after you if you do not report it. Even if you do not receive the 1099, the IRS could still tie you to a crowdfunding campaign through many sources and then come after you for additional taxes.
There are many tax implications for this relatively new type of funding for which the IRS has yet to offer any official guidance. Until it does, your best option is to consult with a tax professional, and you should plan to pay taxes on any income gained from crowdfunding until the IRS says otherwise.
Crowdfunding sites like Kickstarter are rapidly gaining popularity. For those unfamiliar with crowdfunding, it offers a platform for people to introduce new product ideas (along with many other fundraising goals), and then ask people to donate money in order to fund that idea. The idea is definitely free market: the popular ideas get funded; the others get left behind. Presently, you cannot sell ownership of your idea, but you can offer product discounts and other benefits to those who donate.
I was listening to a tech show last weekend, and one caller brought up a very important issue about crowdfunding: very little has come from the IRS regarding the tax consequences of money raised through these sites.
Working through the options for handling this money with the IRS, the host and the caller came to the conclusion that it would have to be treated as income. Funds raised are taxable as sales, which means that any expenses incurred in providing benefits would be deductible against the income. However, whatever is left would be treated as income.
Furthermore, the site may also be under a legal obligation to send you a 1099 for your income, which means that the IRS will be expecting you to report it. Because there will be a record that you received this income, it will be easy for the IRS to come after you if you do not report it. Even if you do not receive the 1099, the IRS could still tie you to a crowdfunding campaign through many sources and then come after you for additional taxes.
There are many tax implications for this relatively new type of funding for which the IRS has yet to offer any official guidance. Until it does, your best option is to consult with a tax professional, and you should plan to pay taxes on any income gained from crowdfunding until the IRS says otherwise.
Wednesday, August 20, 2014
Which Is Safer? Credit or Debit
The recurring question when making a purchase used to be "Cash or Credit?" However, the prevalence of credit and debit cards has now made paying by cash a thing of the past for many people. Until recently, when I began taking privacy more seriously, I was someone who could always be counted on to never have change for a $20. In fact, I rarely had any cash on me at all!
Now, the question any time you swipe a card is "Credit or Debit". It seems almost inevitable that you will face that question every time you use your card. While the answer you give will depend on the card that you choose to use, this question raises an important follow-up question: "Is one safer than the other?"
(I am defining the question as which card you choose to swipe, not the actual option you select on the pin pad. Some banks want you to choose credit even when you use your debit card, but for the purpose of this tip, they are still debit cards, even if you choose the credit option.)
The actual security of your card number, expiration date, etc. is not going to change regardless of the card you choose to use. The security of your card will be determined by the merchant's security, not the type of card. However, should your card data be stolen, you will be much better off if it is your credit card.
First, a credit card is safer because the bill comes later. While this is a source of problem for many people who spend more than they make, it also makes choosing credit the better option. If there is a fraudulent charge, you can simply choose to ignore the charge, write a letter stating that the charge is fraudulent, and wait for the credit to (hopefully) come on your next statement. With a debit card, your money will disappear from your account, and you will have to show that the charge is fraudulent in order to get it back. My bank has been very good about refunding money involved in debit card disputes within 24 hours, but I have heard stories from others who have had banks that were not so friendly.
If money is taken from your checking account, you could end up not having enough to pay bills, or you could get slammed with overdraft fees when those bills clear. This adds another headache to your already stressful situation.
Second, credit cards are more protected legally than debit cards. Under federal law, your liability in case of fraud is limited to $50 if you notify your bank regarding the fraudulent charge within 60 days. For many years, debit cards lacked this protection. Now, they have the same protection only if you notify your bank within two days. After forty-eight hours, your liability increases to $500. Once again, the liability figures are based on federal law only; it is the policy of many banks to completely clear fraudulent charges for both types of cards when notified within 60 days.
Furthermore, debit cards lack the purchase protection that credit cards have. Under federal law, if your purchase is defective, damaged in shipping, or never shows up, you can dispute the credit card transaction. With a debit card, you are once again relying on the policy of your bank instead of the law to determine if you can file a dispute.
Third, technological advancements have made gaining access to your card number even easier. Skimmers are small devices that can be attached to a credit card machine. They not only give your information to the merchant, but also make a copy that can be sent to thieves. The most common place to find these skimmers is on gas pumps, since they can be installed without a clerk around, but a clerk involved in a fraud ring could easily install one on any device.
If a skimmer picks up your credit card, the thieves will only be able to make charges. However, if a skimmer picks up your debit card--along with your PIN--they can start withdrawing your money from ATMs. Once again, you will have very little legal protection in this case; you will be relying primarily on the protections offered by your bank.
In conclusion, debit cards offer no security advantage over credit cards, as both can be stolen just as easily. However, you will be much better protected legally and your problem will be much easier to solve if you use your credit card. Given these facts, it is no surprise that debit card usage has actually declined. Four years ago, debit cards were used for 40 percent more transactions than cash; today, they are almost equal.
Due to these factors, I have almost completely stopped using my debit card anywhere but an ATM. When I need to pay with a card, I pay with my credit card, and I use an online transfer to move the money from my checking account to my credit card. This keeps me from losing track of my spending and going into debt, but it still offers the protection of a credit card. If you choose to use your debit card, make sure you have your bank's debit card protection policies in writing. (The word of a teller or even the branch manager will not offer you any protection.) Then, keep a close eye on your account for any unscrupulous activity.
Second, credit cards are more protected legally than debit cards. Under federal law, your liability in case of fraud is limited to $50 if you notify your bank regarding the fraudulent charge within 60 days. For many years, debit cards lacked this protection. Now, they have the same protection only if you notify your bank within two days. After forty-eight hours, your liability increases to $500. Once again, the liability figures are based on federal law only; it is the policy of many banks to completely clear fraudulent charges for both types of cards when notified within 60 days.
Furthermore, debit cards lack the purchase protection that credit cards have. Under federal law, if your purchase is defective, damaged in shipping, or never shows up, you can dispute the credit card transaction. With a debit card, you are once again relying on the policy of your bank instead of the law to determine if you can file a dispute.
Third, technological advancements have made gaining access to your card number even easier. Skimmers are small devices that can be attached to a credit card machine. They not only give your information to the merchant, but also make a copy that can be sent to thieves. The most common place to find these skimmers is on gas pumps, since they can be installed without a clerk around, but a clerk involved in a fraud ring could easily install one on any device.
If a skimmer picks up your credit card, the thieves will only be able to make charges. However, if a skimmer picks up your debit card--along with your PIN--they can start withdrawing your money from ATMs. Once again, you will have very little legal protection in this case; you will be relying primarily on the protections offered by your bank.
In conclusion, debit cards offer no security advantage over credit cards, as both can be stolen just as easily. However, you will be much better protected legally and your problem will be much easier to solve if you use your credit card. Given these facts, it is no surprise that debit card usage has actually declined. Four years ago, debit cards were used for 40 percent more transactions than cash; today, they are almost equal.
Due to these factors, I have almost completely stopped using my debit card anywhere but an ATM. When I need to pay with a card, I pay with my credit card, and I use an online transfer to move the money from my checking account to my credit card. This keeps me from losing track of my spending and going into debt, but it still offers the protection of a credit card. If you choose to use your debit card, make sure you have your bank's debit card protection policies in writing. (The word of a teller or even the branch manager will not offer you any protection.) Then, keep a close eye on your account for any unscrupulous activity.
Tuesday, August 19, 2014
More Is Not Always Better
More is not always better. Someone I know learned this the hard way when he took more than the maximum dose of Motrin and ended up in the hospital with symptoms resembling a heart attack. However, this maxim is also true when it comes to antivirus software.
You should never have more than one active antivirus program installed. (By active, I am referring to a program that actively runs in the background, scanning web sites and downloads and checking for possible threats.) Running multiple antivirus programs can cause major issues. First, each program will take up your computer's resources. This means you are giving up double CPU processing speed, RAM space, and clock cycles to run the two programs.
The two programs may also cause additional conflicts. If you try to download a file, both programs may try to scan it simultaneously, and you may end up with an error message or a crash. Since antivirus software requires many permissions and take many actions that malware takes, the two programs may also attempt to disable each other. Simply put, running two active programs will only cause you a load of headaches.
However, there are plenty of software programs that are not active programs. These programs only scan when you tell them to, and they are designed to work with your existing active program. Since they won't use your resources without your permission or try to shut down your antivirus protection, you can use as many of them as you want.
If you need antivirus software, try out these free programs that I recommend:
Active Software:
Avast - Avast is the program I currently use, and it is the one that I recommend. It has consistently scored high on antivirus tests, and it is one of the largest antivirus programs to offer a bug bounty. (They pay people who inform them of bugs and security holes in their software.)
AVG - AVG is another excellent program. I have used AVG in the past, and I feel that it is one of the easiest to install and use. I have had disagreements with some of their practices in the past, but they have made steps to improve them.
Inactive Software:
Hitman Pro - Hitman is one of my go-to programs when I suspect a malware infection that is not detected by a computer's primary antivirus. It scans quickly and thoroughly, and I have found it to be the best at detecting malware by behavior. This program is not completely free, but you can scan for free unlimited times, and you can get a free 30-day license to remove anything it finds.
Malwarebytes - Malwarebytes is a completely free program that will conduct a thorough scan and remove anything it finds. It is another one of my go-to programs.
Super AntiSpyware - This is another highly-recommend program among computer technicians. While I do not regularly use it myself, I have found that it has caught a few issues that have escaped other options.
You should never have more than one active antivirus program installed. (By active, I am referring to a program that actively runs in the background, scanning web sites and downloads and checking for possible threats.) Running multiple antivirus programs can cause major issues. First, each program will take up your computer's resources. This means you are giving up double CPU processing speed, RAM space, and clock cycles to run the two programs.
The two programs may also cause additional conflicts. If you try to download a file, both programs may try to scan it simultaneously, and you may end up with an error message or a crash. Since antivirus software requires many permissions and take many actions that malware takes, the two programs may also attempt to disable each other. Simply put, running two active programs will only cause you a load of headaches.
However, there are plenty of software programs that are not active programs. These programs only scan when you tell them to, and they are designed to work with your existing active program. Since they won't use your resources without your permission or try to shut down your antivirus protection, you can use as many of them as you want.
If you need antivirus software, try out these free programs that I recommend:
Active Software:
Avast - Avast is the program I currently use, and it is the one that I recommend. It has consistently scored high on antivirus tests, and it is one of the largest antivirus programs to offer a bug bounty. (They pay people who inform them of bugs and security holes in their software.)
AVG - AVG is another excellent program. I have used AVG in the past, and I feel that it is one of the easiest to install and use. I have had disagreements with some of their practices in the past, but they have made steps to improve them.
Inactive Software:
Hitman Pro - Hitman is one of my go-to programs when I suspect a malware infection that is not detected by a computer's primary antivirus. It scans quickly and thoroughly, and I have found it to be the best at detecting malware by behavior. This program is not completely free, but you can scan for free unlimited times, and you can get a free 30-day license to remove anything it finds.
Malwarebytes - Malwarebytes is a completely free program that will conduct a thorough scan and remove anything it finds. It is another one of my go-to programs.
Super AntiSpyware - This is another highly-recommend program among computer technicians. While I do not regularly use it myself, I have found that it has caught a few issues that have escaped other options.
Monday, August 18, 2014
Save Money on Textbooks
The month of August brings us back to school. For college students, one of the biggest surprises can be the cost of textbooks. I remember some books costing $40-50 or more when I was in college, and I am sure that number has risen substantially in the seven years since I graduated. I recently heard one story of someone who went to purchase a textbook for a introductory history class and had to pay $160 for the one book.
Obviously, buying used textbooks has been a solution to combat high book prices for many years. If you don't want to buy a used textbook, you can check online for the book. Below, I will list four sites to check out if you are considering buying online.
First, when looking for a textbook, I always recommend searching by the ISBN. This is a code that is unique to the individual book. There are many textbooks that may share the same title, especially if it is a generic title like "Modern Mathematics". Even when the author name is a match, there may be two, three, or even more editions of the book. All of this is a lot to check when shopping. However, if you simply get the ISBN of the book you need (you can even go to your campus bookstore to get it from the book), you can make sure that you are purchasing the correct book for your class without having to check each item carefully.
Amazon.com - Amazon is a leader in textbooks, too! Plus, their marketplace makes it easy for stores to sell used books in addition to the new books available through Amazon.
Half.com - Half.com is an Ebay-owned company that allows people to sell their used textbooks to the next year's students.
Chegg.com - Chegg.com allows you to sell your used books and to purchase used books at reduced prices. It also has a tutoring section and a internship/job search section.
Abebooks.com - Abebooks is my preferred site. While it tends to focus on older and out-of-print books, there are plenty of newer titles available, as well. Plus, if you need a book simply for research (not as a textbook for your class), the previous edition might be available here at a greatly reduced price.
Obviously, buying used textbooks has been a solution to combat high book prices for many years. If you don't want to buy a used textbook, you can check online for the book. Below, I will list four sites to check out if you are considering buying online.
First, when looking for a textbook, I always recommend searching by the ISBN. This is a code that is unique to the individual book. There are many textbooks that may share the same title, especially if it is a generic title like "Modern Mathematics". Even when the author name is a match, there may be two, three, or even more editions of the book. All of this is a lot to check when shopping. However, if you simply get the ISBN of the book you need (you can even go to your campus bookstore to get it from the book), you can make sure that you are purchasing the correct book for your class without having to check each item carefully.
Amazon.com - Amazon is a leader in textbooks, too! Plus, their marketplace makes it easy for stores to sell used books in addition to the new books available through Amazon.
Half.com - Half.com is an Ebay-owned company that allows people to sell their used textbooks to the next year's students.
Chegg.com - Chegg.com allows you to sell your used books and to purchase used books at reduced prices. It also has a tutoring section and a internship/job search section.
Abebooks.com - Abebooks is my preferred site. While it tends to focus on older and out-of-print books, there are plenty of newer titles available, as well. Plus, if you need a book simply for research (not as a textbook for your class), the previous edition might be available here at a greatly reduced price.
Sunday, August 17, 2014
Security Alert: 30,000 Computers Hacked in One Hour
At the DefCon Security Conference, one engineer talked about a problem in unprotected remote access software. Remote access software like LogMeIn or GoToMyPC is extremely convenient, but if you do not password protect the software, anyone can access it. This engineer accessed the desktops of 30,000 people in one hour without the owners knowing. The worst part: he found vulnerable computers in stores and power plants!
The moral of this story is to avoid using remote access software unless it is necessary. If it is necessary, make sure you use a strong password to protect your computer. Do not leave it without a password, and do not use the software's default password. And, if you find that you only need remote access software at specific times (like when travelling), it might be best to uninstall the software until the next time you will need remote access.
The moral of this story is to avoid using remote access software unless it is necessary. If it is necessary, make sure you use a strong password to protect your computer. Do not leave it without a password, and do not use the software's default password. And, if you find that you only need remote access software at specific times (like when travelling), it might be best to uninstall the software until the next time you will need remote access.
Tuesday, August 12, 2014
A Simple Fix That Solves Many Problems
If you have called tech support, one of the questions you will usually hear is "Have you tried restarting?" Yes, turning your device off and back on may actually fix many of the problems you are having.
There are many reasons why a restart can fix a problem. The data that your computer is actively using (in open programs and files) has to be refreshed by the computer regularly. If data gets corrupted on a refresh, it can remain corrupted until you restart. Depending on what got corrupted, this error might never cause a problem or it might crash the entire system. (The most likely outcome is somewhere in between the two.) Restarting your computer will force the computer to use the original data instead of constantly refreshing the corrupted data.
Memory leaks are another problem that can be solved with a restart. A memory leak occurs when a program constantly requests more and more memory. You may not be using that program anymore, but the memory may still be reserved for it. This limits the memory available for other tasks. (To visualize, think of memory like employees. If you keep taking employees away from their regular duties to work on one project, you can accomplish fewer tasks with the remaining employees.)
Restarting can also be a diagnostic tool. Even if the problem returns after a restart, you can use the restart to determine if a program is causing the problem. When the problem appears, think about the last program you opened. Then, test it by restarting and using only that program. If the problem appears, restart again and try using your computer without opening that program. If the problem does not surface, then you can check for updates or uninstall and reinstall that program.
Restarting even works on devices like routers and modems. I have saved many phone calls to my internet provider by simply unplugging my router and modem for a few seconds. Plug it back in, and the internet works fine again.
There are many reasons why a restart can fix a problem. The data that your computer is actively using (in open programs and files) has to be refreshed by the computer regularly. If data gets corrupted on a refresh, it can remain corrupted until you restart. Depending on what got corrupted, this error might never cause a problem or it might crash the entire system. (The most likely outcome is somewhere in between the two.) Restarting your computer will force the computer to use the original data instead of constantly refreshing the corrupted data.
Memory leaks are another problem that can be solved with a restart. A memory leak occurs when a program constantly requests more and more memory. You may not be using that program anymore, but the memory may still be reserved for it. This limits the memory available for other tasks. (To visualize, think of memory like employees. If you keep taking employees away from their regular duties to work on one project, you can accomplish fewer tasks with the remaining employees.)
Restarting can also be a diagnostic tool. Even if the problem returns after a restart, you can use the restart to determine if a program is causing the problem. When the problem appears, think about the last program you opened. Then, test it by restarting and using only that program. If the problem appears, restart again and try using your computer without opening that program. If the problem does not surface, then you can check for updates or uninstall and reinstall that program.
Restarting even works on devices like routers and modems. I have saved many phone calls to my internet provider by simply unplugging my router and modem for a few seconds. Plug it back in, and the internet works fine again.
Monday, August 11, 2014
Can You Spot the Problems With This Fake Email?
Over the weekend, I received an email from "Skype". It told me that my account had been suspended and detailed what I needed to go through in order to reactivate my account. I knew right away that it was fake because I have never had an account on Skype. However, if you do have an account, how easily would you be able to identify this as a fake email? Without reading on, can you spot five problems with this email? (You can click on the picture to enlarge it.)
Here are five problems you should have caught:
1) Email Address - If this email were really from Skype, it would be coming from blahblah@skype.com. This email is not coming from skype.com, it is coming from account53654156pod6501_verifcation.com. Also, check the spelling carefully. I once received an email that came from statefram.com. Obviously, they were hoping that I would not realize the transposed letters and think this was actually from State Farm. If the email is coming from something other than the company's main website or it is extremely long (both apply in this case), be suspicious.
2) Missing Logo - Yes, a small Skype logo appears on the right-hand side, but most companies put their logos all over their emails. You would expect a full-sized logo that says "Skype" somewhere in a email coming from Skype. If an email is text only or only contains a small logo, be suspicious.
3) Poor Grammar/Spelling - Except for the misspelled "verifcation" in the email address, this email actually has good spelling. However, there are multiple grammar issues with this message. The first paragraph is missing a space after a period, none of the paragraphs end with any punctuation, the colon after Reference Number has a space before it and not after it, and there are a few words that should not have been capitalized. An automated email like this coming from a large company will have been proofread by multiple copywriters. Minor grammar errors will sometimes happen, and occasionally a company will make a major mistake, but no company would ever allow an email with this many errors to go out in its name. If you are not an English teacher and you notice more than one spelling or grammar error, be suspicious.
4) Strange Wording - Skype is not going to be concerned with the activity on your credit card. The would obviously want to make sure that purchases you made through Skype are legitimate, but they would reference activity on your account, not on your credit card. If the wording seems strange or overly urgent, be suspicious.
5) Link in Email - Due to all the phishing attacks, very few companies will provide a link in an email for you to confirm your account details. Almost all of them will ask you to go to their website and log in there. (This does not apply to opt in emails for lists, like the one you received to confirm your subscription to my mailing list. You should know the link is legitimate since you requested it.) If there is a link in the email for you to confirm your personal information, be suspicious.
There are two more items you would not have been able to see from the email picture, but that were apparent to me from seeing the actual email:
1) Single Image - I would not have expected you to notice this based on the picture provided, but the entire email is an image, with all the text and pictures contained as part of the image. This is a tool used by spammers and scammers. Since spam filters will not see any text (they cannot read the text in the image, they just see it a giant picture), it is much more likely to make it to your actual inbox. Not only does this mean that it will more people will read it, but it also makes it seem more credible.
2) The Actual Link - When I hover over the link to "confirm my information", it does not take me to skype.com. It actually takes me to http://j.gs/7174136/gqsw82. A large company is unlikely to use shortened web addresses for something like this.
The simple way to never be scammed by emails like this is to never click on links in emails. As I mentioned earlier, most companies will tell you to go to their website and log in instead of sending a link. Even if Skype did actually send links in their emails, they would not mind at all if you went to skype.com and entered your log in information there. If they were legitimately concerned about activity on your account, they would provide instructions on how to reactivate your account once you log in.
Did I miss something on the email that you noticed? If you saw another sign that this email is fake, please let me know at hcscomputersblog@gmail.com or by commenting on this post (if viewing it on the website.)
Friday, August 8, 2014
Keep Vents Clean to Help Airflow
My regular readers know that the biggest enemy of a computer is heat. Computers have multiple fans to protect them against heat, and all computers have triggers that will cause an instant shut down if the computer gets too hot. (Older computers did not have these built-in safeguards. They would keep running until the computer became too damaged to work anymore.)
Dust is a computer's second-biggest enemy. While dust alone can not do much harm to a computer, it can work with heat to kill your computer even faster. A layer of dust can insulate heat against your components, keeping the heat away from the fans that will push warm air out. It can also clog up fans or vents, reducing their functionality. Keeping dust out of your computer is important.
To get rid of dust, I simply use a can of compressed air. These are available just about anywhere electronics are sold (Walmart, Meijer, Best Buy, etc.) for a few dollars. If you have not cleaned the dust out of your computer in a while, you may want to take it outside to clean it so that you do not blow all the dust back into your house.
On a desktop, remove the side cover if you can figure out how to do so (it is usually held in place with a couple screws on the back). Using the can of compressed air, blow all dust out of the case. Then go to each external vent and blow the dust out of each vent. (Note: If your computer is under warranty, I do not recommend opening the case. Opening the case, even to remove dust, may void the warranty, and many manufacturers are including stickers or sensors to detect if the case has been opened.)
Since a laptop is much harder to take apart, it will also be more difficult to clean. However, you can still clear dust out of all the vents. Many laptops have some covers on the bottom that can be removed for easy access to certain components that are easy to upgrade. If your laptop has these, take them off and blow any dust out of these areas, as well.
Finally, most laptops have a keyboard that is fairly easy to remove. If you are feeling ambitious, you can unscrew the keyboard screws, flip the keyboard over, and have access to blow dust off of some of the components on top. However, when you unscrew the keyboard, be careful that you do not unlatch the ribbon cable from the motherboard. Many of these are difficult to get back into place, especially if you do not have experience at replacing them.
On phones and tablets, just do the best you can. Many do not have vents, and some do not even have a removable cover to access the battery. You may or may not be able to blow out any dust on these devices, but the lack of access also means that dust will have a more difficult time getting in.
Dust is a computer's second-biggest enemy. While dust alone can not do much harm to a computer, it can work with heat to kill your computer even faster. A layer of dust can insulate heat against your components, keeping the heat away from the fans that will push warm air out. It can also clog up fans or vents, reducing their functionality. Keeping dust out of your computer is important.
To get rid of dust, I simply use a can of compressed air. These are available just about anywhere electronics are sold (Walmart, Meijer, Best Buy, etc.) for a few dollars. If you have not cleaned the dust out of your computer in a while, you may want to take it outside to clean it so that you do not blow all the dust back into your house.
On a desktop, remove the side cover if you can figure out how to do so (it is usually held in place with a couple screws on the back). Using the can of compressed air, blow all dust out of the case. Then go to each external vent and blow the dust out of each vent. (Note: If your computer is under warranty, I do not recommend opening the case. Opening the case, even to remove dust, may void the warranty, and many manufacturers are including stickers or sensors to detect if the case has been opened.)
Since a laptop is much harder to take apart, it will also be more difficult to clean. However, you can still clear dust out of all the vents. Many laptops have some covers on the bottom that can be removed for easy access to certain components that are easy to upgrade. If your laptop has these, take them off and blow any dust out of these areas, as well.
Finally, most laptops have a keyboard that is fairly easy to remove. If you are feeling ambitious, you can unscrew the keyboard screws, flip the keyboard over, and have access to blow dust off of some of the components on top. However, when you unscrew the keyboard, be careful that you do not unlatch the ribbon cable from the motherboard. Many of these are difficult to get back into place, especially if you do not have experience at replacing them.
On phones and tablets, just do the best you can. Many do not have vents, and some do not even have a removable cover to access the battery. You may or may not be able to blow out any dust on these devices, but the lack of access also means that dust will have a more difficult time getting in.
Thursday, August 7, 2014
Security Alert: Update on the CyberVor Attack
Hold Security, the company that identified the 1.2 billion password cache, has dubbed the Russian gang that amassed the data "CyberVor". It has not identified any of the websites that have been compromised, and I am not aware of any sites that have made announcements at this time.
Hold will be offering an identity protection service soon. It will tell you if your information appears in any of the records obtained from the CyberVor attack, and it will monitor your information for 30 days as new information becomes available. You can preregister for this service here.
Hold will be offering an identity protection service soon. It will tell you if your information appears in any of the records obtained from the CyberVor attack, and it will monitor your information for 30 days as new information becomes available. You can preregister for this service here.
Request Desktop Sites on Your Mobile Device
Mobile sites are usually wonderful. They are formatted for small screens and require less processing power for phones and tablets. However, there are times when you may not want the mobile site. The layout on a mobile website may be different from what you are used to, or not all features may be accessible from the mobile site.
Most websites used to include a link to access the desktop site on their mobile pages, allowing you to quickly switch back to the desktop site. However, changes in web development practices have meant that many sites have gotten rid of these buttons. This means that you will have to use other measures to get the desktop site instead of the mobile site.
Fortunately, most major mobile browsers now include an option to request the desktop site. (The one exception is the Safari browser for iPhone and iPad.) For Chrome, simply tap the menu button and the "Request Desktop Site" button appears on the main menu.
This will work for most sites, but some will still force you onto the mobile version. In some cases, you can try editing the website's address. Most mobile sites will start with an "m." or have a "/mobile" at the end. Deleting this may take you to the desktop site, but the site may recheck your information, see you are on a mobile device, and redirect you back to the the mobile site.
If neither method works and there is no button on the site to request the desktop version, you are out of options unless you can develop another workaround. For example, the mobile site for my employer does not contain a link to the database where we log in to check our payroll data. To get around this, I went to the login page and copied that address into an email, and then opened the link and bookmarked it on my phone.
Most websites used to include a link to access the desktop site on their mobile pages, allowing you to quickly switch back to the desktop site. However, changes in web development practices have meant that many sites have gotten rid of these buttons. This means that you will have to use other measures to get the desktop site instead of the mobile site.
Fortunately, most major mobile browsers now include an option to request the desktop site. (The one exception is the Safari browser for iPhone and iPad.) For Chrome, simply tap the menu button and the "Request Desktop Site" button appears on the main menu.
This will work for most sites, but some will still force you onto the mobile version. In some cases, you can try editing the website's address. Most mobile sites will start with an "m." or have a "/mobile" at the end. Deleting this may take you to the desktop site, but the site may recheck your information, see you are on a mobile device, and redirect you back to the the mobile site.
If neither method works and there is no button on the site to request the desktop version, you are out of options unless you can develop another workaround. For example, the mobile site for my employer does not contain a link to the database where we log in to check our payroll data. To get around this, I went to the login page and copied that address into an email, and then opened the link and bookmarked it on my phone.
Wednesday, August 6, 2014
Security Alert: Russian Hackers Steal 1.2 Billion Passwords
Hold Security, a Milwaukee-based firm, has reported that a Russian hacker gang has stolen over 1.2 billion user name and password combinations from 420,000 websites. Currently, they are not releasing a list of the compromised sites, since most are still vulnerable.
At this point, there is very little you can do. You could change all your passwords, but vulnerable sites could be attacked again before they are fixed. At this point, the best option is to watch for suspicious activity and wait it out. Eventually, the compromised sites will be announced, and once the problem is fixed, you can change your password and protect your account. Until then, keep an eye out for suspicious activity on your accounts, such as messages you did not send in your sent folder or social media posts you did not make.
At this point, there is very little you can do. You could change all your passwords, but vulnerable sites could be attacked again before they are fixed. At this point, the best option is to watch for suspicious activity and wait it out. Eventually, the compromised sites will be announced, and once the problem is fixed, you can change your password and protect your account. Until then, keep an eye out for suspicious activity on your accounts, such as messages you did not send in your sent folder or social media posts you did not make.
But I Have an Antivirus!
Among comments I hear most often when I am on a service call and I discover a virus is something like, "But I have an antivirus" or "How did that get past my McAfee/Norton/AVG/etc?" Today, I want to clear up exactly what you should expect your antivirus program to be able to do.
An antivirus program is to your computer what the immune system is to your body. The fact that you have a working immune system does not mean you will never get sick. Even those who take vitamins and supplements to boost their immune system will still find their bodies succumbing to the occasional illness. When a virus enters your body, your immune system only knows to eliminate it if you have had it before and have built a resistance to that virus. If you have never encountered that particular strain of a virus, it may take some time before your body realizes that it needs to go into action.
Similarly, antivirus software has become very good at eliminating the threats that it knows about! When it scans the websites you visit and the files you download or open, it is comparing them to a list of known threats. If I were to write a virus and send it out with this email (don't worry, I won't!), it is unlikely that any antivirus would catch it because the software doesn't know it exists. In order to keep up with the latest threats, companies that produce antivirus software are constantly sending out new files with information about the latest threats. These files, usually referred to as definitions, are almost always downloaded automatically to your computer when you are online.
Software is becoming better at recognizing certain behavioral traits of viruses so that they can block some threats before they are included in the definitions. While they are sometimes successful, it can be difficult to distinguish between legitimate programs and viruses. For example, a cloud backup program (which I discussed in an earlier tip) would be identical in function to a virus that copies everything off of your hard drive and sends it to a server in Tajikistan. The only difference would be the destination of the data. An overzealous setting might flag your legitimate cloud backup software as a virus, while looser settings might allow both to operate uninhibited.
Joxean Koret, a researcher with Singapore-based security firm COSENIC, recently gave a presentation where he discussed flaws found in 14 of 17 antivirus products his firm tested. At the end of his presentation, he provided a recommendation for consumers: "Do not blindly trust your antivirus product."
The key word is blindly. Use your antivirus, but also practice good online habits, such as:
An antivirus program is to your computer what the immune system is to your body. The fact that you have a working immune system does not mean you will never get sick. Even those who take vitamins and supplements to boost their immune system will still find their bodies succumbing to the occasional illness. When a virus enters your body, your immune system only knows to eliminate it if you have had it before and have built a resistance to that virus. If you have never encountered that particular strain of a virus, it may take some time before your body realizes that it needs to go into action.
Similarly, antivirus software has become very good at eliminating the threats that it knows about! When it scans the websites you visit and the files you download or open, it is comparing them to a list of known threats. If I were to write a virus and send it out with this email (don't worry, I won't!), it is unlikely that any antivirus would catch it because the software doesn't know it exists. In order to keep up with the latest threats, companies that produce antivirus software are constantly sending out new files with information about the latest threats. These files, usually referred to as definitions, are almost always downloaded automatically to your computer when you are online.
Software is becoming better at recognizing certain behavioral traits of viruses so that they can block some threats before they are included in the definitions. While they are sometimes successful, it can be difficult to distinguish between legitimate programs and viruses. For example, a cloud backup program (which I discussed in an earlier tip) would be identical in function to a virus that copies everything off of your hard drive and sends it to a server in Tajikistan. The only difference would be the destination of the data. An overzealous setting might flag your legitimate cloud backup software as a virus, while looser settings might allow both to operate uninhibited.
Joxean Koret, a researcher with Singapore-based security firm COSENIC, recently gave a presentation where he discussed flaws found in 14 of 17 antivirus products his firm tested. At the end of his presentation, he provided a recommendation for consumers: "Do not blindly trust your antivirus product."
The key word is blindly. Use your antivirus, but also practice good online habits, such as:
- Keep your operating system and other software up-to-date.
- Don't click on links in emails or on social media.
- Don't conduct sensitive business (such as online banking or shopping) on public Wi-Fi.
- Use strong passwords and change them regularly.
- Keep clear of sketchy websites.
- Only download files from reputable sources.
Tuesday, August 5, 2014
Can a New Font Save You Money?
Recently, 14-year-old Suvir Mirchandani made headlines when he claimed that the US Federal and State governments could save almost $400 million per year by switching fonts from Times New Roman to Garamond. While others have claimed the savings would not be nearly as much, it makes one wonder how much money an individual or small business could save by switching fonts.
First, one of the flaws in Mirchandani's argument was that he only considers ink consumption. Garamond uses more space than other fonts, meaning that while ink consumption may decrease, paper consumption will increase, decreasing the savings. Mirchandani's savings would also assumes that every printout is using the government's default font and that every person will readily agree to switch to Garamond. Both are also unlikely.
However, even if the government could save $400 million, does that mean that the savings could be duplicated in your home? If you compare how many sheets of paper are printed by our governments each year to your own printer output, the savings would be minimal. Over the course of the year, you might save a few cents to a few dollars, but large savings would take decades to earn. If you don't mind switching, it might be worth it in the long run, but it is not going to be an effective cost-control measure.
First, one of the flaws in Mirchandani's argument was that he only considers ink consumption. Garamond uses more space than other fonts, meaning that while ink consumption may decrease, paper consumption will increase, decreasing the savings. Mirchandani's savings would also assumes that every printout is using the government's default font and that every person will readily agree to switch to Garamond. Both are also unlikely.
However, even if the government could save $400 million, does that mean that the savings could be duplicated in your home? If you compare how many sheets of paper are printed by our governments each year to your own printer output, the savings would be minimal. Over the course of the year, you might save a few cents to a few dollars, but large savings would take decades to earn. If you don't mind switching, it might be worth it in the long run, but it is not going to be an effective cost-control measure.
Friday, August 1, 2014
Will Windows 7 Be Unsupported?
I received the following question in my email yesterday:
There are many reasons for ending support for a product. One of the biggest reasons is the time it takes to train employees to support the program. We all want support staff to be knowledgeable about the company's products, but it will take more training time (and therefore, more money) to keep training staff on older products. For operating systems, internet browsers, and other software that has to be kept secure, it also costs money to develop patches for security problems found in the software.
While it can be frustrating to give up a product we like before we are ready, it is something we have to accept. Technology advanced quite substantially in the twelve-year support life of Windows XP. When XP was released, we were still three years away from the release of the first Blackberry, five years away from the release of the first iPhone and Android phone, and eight years away from the release of the first commercially-successful tablets.
For each version of Windows, Microsoft actually has two different end-of-support dates. The first, mainstream support, ends at the later of five years after the product is released or two years after it successor is released. The end of mainstream support means that Microsoft will no longer provide free technical support and new features, along with a few other items. For most users, the end of mainstream support is nothing to be concerned about.
The second, extended support, is what recently ended for Windows XP. Extended support for Microsoft's products ends at the later of five years after the product is released or two years after the second successor is released. (For Windows 7, this would mean two years after the release of Windows 9.) After the end-of-support date, Microsoft is no longer required to provide security patches to fix problems discovered. With XP, it did fix one additional problem discovered about a week after support ended, but it has released no other patches.
According to Microsoft's website, the current end-of-support dates (for extended support) are as follows:
Windows Vista: April 11, 2017
Windows 7: January 14, 2020
Windows 8: January 10, 2023
However, these dates (especially for Windows 7 and 8) are likely to change since successor products have not been released. Furthermore, with XP, Microsoft originally scheduled an end-of-support date for sometime in 2011 or 2012 (I do not remember the exact date), but it later extended it to 2014 due to the number of computers still running XP. If Windows 9 does not offer a substantial improvement over Windows 8 and companies and individuals keep holding onto Windows 7, it is likely that Microsoft will extend support for Windows 7 even longer.
I know Windows XP was no longer supported earlier this year. Is there a date when Windows 7 (my version) will no longer be supported either? How will I know?Every software product produced will eventually have a date when it is no longer supported, regardless of who produced it. Companies generally provide information about their support lifecycles on their websites, and it is sometimes also included in the printed documentation you received with your software.
There are many reasons for ending support for a product. One of the biggest reasons is the time it takes to train employees to support the program. We all want support staff to be knowledgeable about the company's products, but it will take more training time (and therefore, more money) to keep training staff on older products. For operating systems, internet browsers, and other software that has to be kept secure, it also costs money to develop patches for security problems found in the software.
While it can be frustrating to give up a product we like before we are ready, it is something we have to accept. Technology advanced quite substantially in the twelve-year support life of Windows XP. When XP was released, we were still three years away from the release of the first Blackberry, five years away from the release of the first iPhone and Android phone, and eight years away from the release of the first commercially-successful tablets.
For each version of Windows, Microsoft actually has two different end-of-support dates. The first, mainstream support, ends at the later of five years after the product is released or two years after it successor is released. The end of mainstream support means that Microsoft will no longer provide free technical support and new features, along with a few other items. For most users, the end of mainstream support is nothing to be concerned about.
The second, extended support, is what recently ended for Windows XP. Extended support for Microsoft's products ends at the later of five years after the product is released or two years after the second successor is released. (For Windows 7, this would mean two years after the release of Windows 9.) After the end-of-support date, Microsoft is no longer required to provide security patches to fix problems discovered. With XP, it did fix one additional problem discovered about a week after support ended, but it has released no other patches.
According to Microsoft's website, the current end-of-support dates (for extended support) are as follows:
Windows Vista: April 11, 2017
Windows 7: January 14, 2020
Windows 8: January 10, 2023
However, these dates (especially for Windows 7 and 8) are likely to change since successor products have not been released. Furthermore, with XP, Microsoft originally scheduled an end-of-support date for sometime in 2011 or 2012 (I do not remember the exact date), but it later extended it to 2014 due to the number of computers still running XP. If Windows 9 does not offer a substantial improvement over Windows 8 and companies and individuals keep holding onto Windows 7, it is likely that Microsoft will extend support for Windows 7 even longer.
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