Monday, June 30, 2014

What To Look For: Processors

As a computer technician, it is not uncommon for someone to come up to me, show me the technical information for two different computers, and then ask me, "Which one is better?"  The truth is:  "better" depends on what you need, not what is actually inside the device.  While one computer may be a "better" computer (more hard drive space, more RAM, faster processor, etc.), you might be able to sacrifice a little performance for a lower cost.  This week, my daily tips will focus on helping you understand how to understand the differences between different devices and determine what is best for your needs.

The first item we will examine is the processor.  The processor is the heart of the computer.  The processor takes the streams of electrical signals from all over the computer and the internet and manipulates them.

To understand some of the major parts of the computer, I will use the example of an office.  The filing cabinet will represent the hard drive, the desk will represent the RAM, and the employee sitting at the desk will represent the processor.  We will discuss hard drives and RAM later, but the processor (employee) will take data (papers) from the desk (RAM) to read and use throughout the day.  Since almost all of the data in your computer has to move through the processor, the processor is an important part of your computer.

There are two major factors to look at when considering processors:  cores and speed.  Cores are the number of physical processing units located within the processor.  Lately, the trend in computing has been to keep adding cores instead of making the processor actually work at a faster speed.  The speed represents how fast each processor core is working.  Let's take a closer look at each of these factors:

1) Cores - As I mentioned earlier, the number of cores in a processor represents the number of processing units within the processor.  If you go back to our office analogy earlier, cores could represent multiple employees working at the same time.  Obviously, you will get more work done if you have four employees handling paperwork instead of two (assuming you don't have lazy employees!)  Processor cores work the same way.  Each core can only be manipulating one item at a time, so if you have multiple cores, the processor can be handling multiple pieces of data simultaneously.

Older computers had only one processor core, but newer computers almost always come with at least a dual-core (two core) processor.  Higher-end computers might come with a quad-core (four core) processor.  The computer I use has a six-core processor.  I have also seen eight-core and even sixteen-core processors on the market, but computers with them are obviously going to be very expensive.  Occasionally, there will be a computer with another number of cores (such as a 3-core processor), but 2, 4, and 6 are the most common ones I have seen.

If you are looking at a list of the technical data on a computer, you can recognize the number of cores by looking at the processor information.  There are two major manufacturers of processors.  Intel's processors will usually always say "Dual Core", "Quad Core", etc.  AMD's processors will shorten it to "X2" (Dual Core), X4 (Quad Core), etc.

2) Speed - The speed of a processor tells you how fast each core can handle information.  Speeds for processors usually range from around 1.50 GHz to 3.50 GHz.  Faster numbers mean that the processor will be able to handle more information in a shorter time.  There are processors outside both ends of this range, but they are either older (for slower speeds) or very high-end computers (for faster speeds).

The speed is usually listed in the technical data along with the number of cores. I did a quick search for a processor, and the first one that came up stated "Intel Xeon E5-2690 2.9 GHz 8-core Processor". Looking at this, you can see that it is an 8-core processor running at 2.9 GHz. Since both the number of cores and the speed are at the high-end, you can expect that this processor would be expensive.  (And it is!  The processor alone retails for over $2000!)

It is important to remember that the speed of the processor is listed for each core.  So a 3.00 GHz quad-core processor would be expected to process twice as much data as a 3.00 GHz dual-core processor.  Obviously, it is important to remember that this is its capability.  It will not need to use all the cores every second if you are not pushing it to its maximum capability.

One final note regarding processors:  those into high-end computer usage may be considering overclocking.  I have read that Intel and AMD processors have similar rates of failure for normal use, but when overclocking, AMD processors begin to fail at a much higher rate.  If you do not know what overclocking is or you are not planning on doing it, then brand should only be a minor concern (unless you are completely determined to only use a particular brand).  If you plan to overclock, then I would only consider Intel.

My Recommendations:
Phone or Tablet for Basic Use:  I would recommend going with at least dual-core processor, but a single-core processor would be acceptable.  Because of the need to reduce heat, most phones and tablets have slower processors in the 1.00 GHz to 1.50 GHz range.
Basic Internet/Office Use:  A dual-core processor running 1.50-2.00 GHz should be fine, but don't be afraid to go a little higher.  Browsers and office software are becoming more complex, so you want to give as much room so your computer.
High Usage/Multitasking/Video Streaming:  Something a little faster than the processor mentioned above would be ideal.  Either go with a dual-core running closer to 3.00 GHz or any speed quad-core.
High-End Gaming/Video Editing and Rendering:  A quad-core or above will almost be required.  For these tasks, go with the fastest overall processing speed you can afford.  And as I mentioned earlier, if you are considering overclocking, stick with Intel only.

Friday, June 27, 2014

Reduce Computer Eyestrain with a Simple Program

If your day is anything like mine, you spend a lot of time looking at your computer screen, sometimes late into the night.  The glow from your monitor can make your eyes think that it is daytime, even at 10:00 at night.  This can make it more difficult to get to sleep when you do finally turn in for the night.

Fortunately, there is a program that can solve this problem. F.lux is a program that will adjust your monitor's brightness based on the current time.  After you enter your location, your monitor will gradually brighten throughout the morning, and then dim as the sun goes down in the evening.

The f.lux icon will sit in your taskbar so that it will be easy to disable it if you need to do color-sensitive work on your computer.  If you need to do photo or video editing, you can quickly disable it for one hour, or if you want to watch a movie, you can put it into movie mode, which disables it for 2 1/2 hours.  If you know you will be working on a project for a long time, you can also choose to disable it until the next day.

I can tell you from personal experience that this program works for those who use a monitor for long periods of time.  Since both of my jobs require heavy use of my eyes, I have had eyestrain problems for several years.  However, since installing f.lux, I have found that my eyestrain has decreased.

Thursday, June 26, 2014

What's Killing Your Battery?

Does your phone or tablet seem to die on you at the worst time?  Are you sure that you should be getting more out of your battery?  Then the Battery Doctor app is for you.

Not only does this app tell you how much battery you have left, but it also identifies apps that may be draining your battery unnecessarily and gives you tips to promote good battery practices.  For example, when I struggled with poor battery life on my phone, Battery Doctor let me know that a certain app was running constantly in the background, draining the battery.

The latest version (which I have not upgraded to yet), is also supposed to have the ability to shut off all the power-hogging apps with one button.

To download this app, go to:
Google Play - Battery Doctor
iTunes - Battery Doctor

Bonus Battery Tip:  I recently purchased a new battery for my mom's phone.  I told her that once she gets her new battery, charge her old battery and keep it in her purse to use in case of an emergency.  Even if the battery only provides enough charge to make a phone call to 911, it's better than being caught in an emergency with a good--but dead--battery.  So, when you do have to replace your battery, if it still holds any charge at all, put it in a place where it will go with you in case you have an emergency.

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Making Use of the Aero Interface

If you have Windows 7 or 8, you have the Aero interface built in to your desktop, unless you have disabled it.  (Vista also has a version of the Aero interface, but the features of this tip do not work.)  The Aero interface contains several very useful features that you might want to try out and use on a regular basis.  Here are four of the most useful uses:

1) Areo Peek - When you have a window open, hover your mouse over the taskbar icon to see a thumbnail of the window.  This is useful if you have multiple windows open for the same program, and you want to see which window you are maximizing before you open it.

2) Aero Snap - Aero snap is perhaps the most useful tool in Windows 7 (at least for me).  This allows you to "snap" a window to your monitor.  There are two different ways to snap.  First, you can drag the window to the very top of your monitor.  Before you release the mouse, you will see a small circle that expands to fill the screen.  After you see the circle, you can release the mouse, and the window you are dragging will instantly fill the screen.

You can also snap to the right or left side of your screen.  This will cause the current window to fill only the half of the screen you are snapping it to.  This is very useful when you have two windows you want to use simultaneously.

3) Aero Shake - By grabbing the title bar of a window and quickly shaking it back and forth, you can quickly minimize all other windows.  Shaking the window again will restore all the windows you minimized.

4) View Desktop - On the far right side of the taskbar (just to the right of the clock), there is a small button.  (The button usually blends in with the clock until you hover your mouse over it.)  Clicking on this button will minimize all windows and show you the desktop.  Clicking it again will restore all windows.  In Windows 7, you can hover over the button and have all windows disappear until you move the mouse again.

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Block Piggybacking Programs

Have you ever installed a program you downloaded and found that you unknowingly gave the installer permission to install other programs or change your home page and search defaults?  It has happened to me before.  I like to call these "piggybacking" programs.  Companies have made it increasingly difficult to find the check-boxes you need to click on in order to avoid these installations.

The latest thing has been to offer the option of a "Standard Installation" or a "Custom Installation".  The standard installation will install the extra programs, and you only see the check boxes that stop the installation after you have chosen to do a custom installation.  If you never choose custom installation, you never realize that you are giving permission for these programs to be loaded on your computer.

These programs used to just be annoying, but now they are becoming malicious.  I recently downloaded one program to try, and I found out that a company that produces adware was going to be installing its software alongside this program.  (I chose not to install the original program I downloaded, either.)

Fortunately, there is a program that helps clear these check boxes:  Unchecky.  Unchecky will work in the background and automatically uncheck most of these boxes for you.  Unchecky does a good job, but it is not perfect, and it does not replace watching the installation process yourself.  However, it will work as a great sidekick to help defeat annoying and malicious piggybacking software.

Monday, June 23, 2014

Does My Phone or Tablet Need an Antivirus?

Over the weekend, I received a question from a subscriber to this newsletter, and I felt that it was an important topic to address.  This person had recently received a new tablet and wanted to know if he needed to put an anti-virus on it.  I would like to address a few things about operating systems, viruses, and security software, and then I will use those points to answer the question.

First, there is no such thing as a secure or virus-free operating system.  It is true that very few viruses have been written for anything other than Windows, but it is because those operating systems have not been as popular, not because it is impossible to write for them.  Until recently, the Macintosh OS had only a niche following, and there were so many varieties of Linux that it was impossible to write one that would affect all of them.  Yes, there are features of these operating systems that make it more difficult to infect, but every operating system has holes that someone could use to exploit.  The popularity of Windows is what made it the prime target because the people who produced these programs received a better "return on investment".

With the advent of tablets came two new operating systems:  Android and iOS.  Android has been exploited most, partly because of its open-source nature (Android's source code is freely available for anyone to download and look at) and partly because it is more widely-used than iOS or any other mobile operating system.  This does not mean iOS cannot be exploited:  the recent "Oleg Pliss" attack shows that it is also vulnerable.

Android and iOS are both more secure than Windows because they were designed differently.  Both require permissions before apps can be installed on your device and limit the interaction among different apps.  They also have features that limit the ability of your device to spread malware to others.  Even if you get something, it is unlikely that it could be sent to your friends or family through an e-mail or over a network.

However, this does not mean that your tablet or phone is completely secure.  There is a large amount of malware available in the app stores, and even Apple's process for reviewing apps has been fooled by developers.  (Google does review apps for the Android store by an automated scan.)  If you like to install a lot of free apps, you are probably in the most at-risk group for malware.

In conclusion, an anti-virus app for your phone or tablet is definitely a good idea, although unlike Windows, you could probably get by without one.  The only anti-virus app I have used is Lookout (link for the Apple and Android app stores below).  While I cannot say that I believe it is the best without having tried others, I have seen it recommend by many tech experts, and it is the one I have on my Android phone and tablet.  Lookout also has many other features, such as the ability to help you find and back up your device.  Like many antivirus programs, it has both a free version and a paid version with more features.

iTunes - Lookout Mobile Security
Google Play - Lookout Mobile Security

Friday, June 20, 2014

Keyboard Shortcuts That Will Save You Time

Yesterday, we covered how the scroll wheel on the mouse can do more than just scroll up and down the page.  Today, we will look at four keyboard shortcuts that can save you time.

1) Switch Between Programs Easily - If you need to switch between two different programs or two windows of the same program, you can use the Alt+Tab (meaning you hold down the Alt key while you hit Tab) key combination to switch between them.  The first time you hit the Tab key, you will see a list of programs you have open, arranged in the order you last used them.  If you continue to hold down the Alt key, you can hit the tab key multiple times to cycle between the open windows.  When you reach the window you want, release the Alt key to switch to that window.

2) Close Programs without a Mouse - If your hands are already on your keyboard and you need to close the program you are working with, you can use the key command Alt+F4.

Bonus Tip:  If you are working in a browser with tabs, you can close only the current tab with the key command Ctrl+W.  This command also works in Microsoft Office and some other programs that allow for multiple files to be open within the same window.

3) Cut, Copy, and Paste - This tip is actually three-in-one.  The cut, copy, and paste commands are invaluable tools.  However, you can access them without needing to move your hands from the keyboard.  You can cut using the key combination Ctrl+X, and you can copy using the key combination Ctrl+C.  Pasting what you cut or copied earlier can be accomplished by using Ctrl+V.  These three combinations may seem hard to remember, but it is easier once you realize that the three keys are all next to each other on the keyboard.  Using these commands in combination with the fourth item will allow you to cut, copy, and paste without needing the mouse.

4) Select Text - If you are editing a Word document or any other file where you have a cursor, holding down the Shift key and navigating with the arrow keys will allow me to select text.  Unfortunately, this does not work in most web pages, where you do not have a cursor to designate the starting point.

Thursday, June 19, 2014

The Scroll Wheel Does So Much More!

For years, the majority of mice have come with a scroll wheel. Yes, the scroll wheel allows you to do is to scroll up and down, but did you know it can do so much more?  Here are five other things you can do with your scroll wheel:

1) Open a Link in a New Tab - Browser tabs have made our lives more convenient.  Instead of having to open multiple browser windows, we can now see all the pages we have open in one simple bar at the top of the screen.  It is not uncommon for me to have five or more tabs open at a single time.  If you need to open a link in a new tab, simply click with the scroll wheel (called a 'middle click').

2) Close a Browser Tab - Staying on the topic of middle clicking, if you want to close a tab in your browser, simply middle click anywhere on the tab at the top of the page.  It's much easier than trying to get your mouse right on the little 'x'.

3) AutoScroll - Middle click in a browser window, an Office document, or many other programs, and your cursor will turn into a small compass.  Move your mouse in a any direction to scroll in that particular direction.  Once you've reached where you want to go, middle click again to get your regular cursor back.  This may not work in every program, but the only way to know for sure is to try it.

4) Close a Window - This one only works in Windows 7 or 8.  The taskbar at the bottom of your screen contains an icon for every program you have running.  When you hover over that icon, a thumbnail of the window or windows you have open will show up.  You can right click to open a particular window, or you can middle click on the thumbnail to close it.

5) Zoom In and Out - Holding down the Ctrl key while scrolling up or down will zoom the current window in or out.  This works in most programs, and once again, the only way to know for sure is to try it in your favorite program!

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Do You Need an 'AC' Router?

Home networks used to be something that only a few people set up.  However, with game consoles, streaming TV gadgets, tablets, smartphones, and computers all competing for internet access, a home network is a must-have for almost every home.  At the center of your network is your router.

Your router is the device that takes your incoming internet traffic and sends it to the right place.  Otherwise, you might find your son's email showing up on your TV screen where your Netflix movie was supposed to be.

If you go to a store to buy a new router, the salesperson will likely try to impress you with information about letters and speeds.  "If you buy THIS 'ac' router, you can get speeds up to 1.75 Gigabits..."  But what does all that really mean?

The Institute for Electrical and Electronics Engineers designates code numbers for various topics.  For Wi-Fi, the code is 802.11.  If you look carefully, you will see this on almost every box for a wireless router.  As the standards for Wi-Fi communication have been revised, they have been given letters that follow the 802.11.  The initial standards were 802.11a, then it was revised to 802.11b, etc.  With each revision came improvements in speed, security, and other features.

Most of these revisions are not readily available.  Some are experimental, and some just fail to catch on.  Until last year, the most common revisions were 802.11b, 802.11g, and 802.11n.  However, the 802.11ac standard was released last year (since there have now been more than 26 revisions, we are now using two-letter codes.)  This standard promises much faster internet, allowing for speeds even faster than wired ethernet.

However, this does not mean you should go out right now and buy a new 'ac' router.  In order to communicate at the faster speeds, both your router and your devices need to support the new standard.  If the majority of your devices are over two years old, they certainly will not support this new standard.  Even many devices produced within the last year still do not support this standard.  There is certainly no point in buying a new router, only to find out that your devices cannot communicate at the fast speed you were expecting, unless you are planning to upgrade most of your devices within the next year or two.

If you are unsure what types of Wi-Fi your devices support, check the documentation in print or online.  Look for that 802.11 number and see what letters follow it.  (It is often written as 802.11b/g/n, meaning that it supports the b, g, and n standards.)  Then, if you are in the market for a new router, buy one that communicates at the fastest speed your devices support, unless you are planning to upgrade devices soon.

Eventually, the 'ac' standard will become as common as the 'g' or 'n' standards.  However, until it does, you are wasting your money unless you know that your devices, or the devices you plan to buy soon, support that standard.

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Block Annoying (and Sometimes Malicious) Ads

Between December 30, 2013, and January 2, 2014, approximately 2.5 million computers were infected with malicious software as a result of an exploit of Yahoo's advertising platform. According to CNET, "Users who saw pages with the malicious ads were redirected to sites that install intrusive software onto their computers, even if they didn't click on the advertisement."

The response by Yahoo was somewhat baffling. They offered very few details, and they simply stated, "On Friday, January 3 on our European sites, we served some advertisements that did not meet our editorial guidelines, specifically they spread malware. We promptly removed these advertisements." (Isn't it good to know that Yahoo's editorial guidelines do not permit the spreading of malware.)

Although Americans were not affected by this particular issue, it illustrates the many innovative ways in which malware developers are going after our computers. Even when they are not malicious, these advertisements can be annoying, deceptive, and sometimes, downright improper for children and even ourselves.

Fortunately, there is a way to stop them. There are many add-ons available for your browser that will stop malicious advertisements. My personal favorite is Adblock Plus. It does a great job at stopping these ads, and it is available for all major browsers: Internet Explorer, Chrome, Firefox, Safari, and Opera. Not long after I installed it on my computer, I was looking at one of my websites and could not figure out why my ad would not show up where I wanted it to! However, unless you are developing websites that use advertising, I highly doubt you will miss surfing the web advertisement-free.

Monday, June 16, 2014

Are Your Files Really Deleted?

You've selected your file and hit the delete key, and then you've gone to the recycle bin (or trash can) and emptied it. Your file has now entered the world of electronic oblivion, right?

Not so fast. Every single piece of your data is still there. Obviously, this is good news if you accidentally deleted a file that you now want back, but it not good if you are planning to sell or dispose of your computer and do not want your personal information in the wrong hands.

To understand this, your hard drive is divided into small sectors. When you save a file, it places it in one of these sectors. If it is too big for one sector, it will fill the first sector, and at the very end will be code telling it where to look for the next sequence of data. Very large files may fill tens or hundreds of sectors. The file system in your operating system (Windows, MacOS, Linux, etc.) contains a list of the files saved and where to look for the first sector of the file. When you open a file, the computer looks in the file system for the first sector, loads that sector, and then continues the process with each sector the file is using.

At the very beginning of each sector is a single bit that tells the computer whether or not it is allowed to write data into that sector. When you empty the recycle bin, it simply deletes the reference to the file in the file system and changes all these bits so that the computer knows it can write new data into that sector. However, the data is actually still there! Over time, much of it will eventually be written over by new files, but until the computer decided it needs that sector for new data, your old data will still be stored there.

However, you can make sure your files are actually gone. If you are planning to sell or dispose of your computer, I would recommend using the program CCleaner. The free version contains a Drive Wiper. Once it opens, click on tools on the left side, and then select drive wiper. Choose to wipe the free space (wiping the entire drive requires taking the drive out of your computer and putting it into another computer), and then choose the security level: the number of times that the program will write junk data into each empty sector. A single pass will be enough for most purposes, but if you have highly-sensitive data, you may want to choose more passes. Then, select the drive you want to clean, and click Wipe. The process will take a while, but the protection you will receive is definitely worth it.